Worth the Wait

With our goodbyes all done, the only thing left to do was to actually leave but apparently Honduras was just as reluctant to say good bye to us as we were to it. Please fasten your seatbelts folks, we are now approaching some turbulence.

Our journey home was composed of at least two flights for everyone, from San Pedro Sula to Miami and then Miami to London Heathrow. For some of us there was one more, onwards to Edinburgh, Inverness, Aberdeen and even Budapest. We arrived at the airport in SPS in plenty of time (none of us wanted a repeat of what happened at Christmas when we missed our boat to Utila – we weren’t quite that desperate to stay) but were told that our flight was delayed by 45 minutes. Not so bad but as we waited our departure time kept getting later and our wait longer. We eventually left just over two hours late but because our layover in Miami was originally three hours long, the delay meant that we had very little time to get through the monster of an airport that is Miami International.

Adios!
An accurate representation of our feelings about leaving Honduras

We touched down at 8pm and our flight left at 8.40pm so as soon as we were off that plane, we were sprinting, bags flailing, flip flops flapping, cursing our lack of fitness. We managed to bag a flashy fluorescent orange pass that let us skip queues which worked until we got to security where there was a separate queue for others with the same flashy card so we couldn’t skip it. Another issue was that we came through security at gate D26 and our gate was E23. It sounds worse when I say that the D gates go up to 60. And we had 15 minutes. We were told we weren’t going to make it but we tried anyway. Amy and Sophie were sent ahead without their bags so they could sprint to the gate and maybe get them to wait for the sweaty, hopeful group of 16 other teenagers that were on their way.

It didn’t work. Amy and Sophie got there two minutes after they had closed the gates/the plane had left so by the time the rest of us got there there was nothing we could do. We had to traverse our way back across the terminals we had crossed to the rebooking desk where we waited for an hour and half, witnessed a show of crazy that you can only see from someone who has missed multiple flights and thinks the world owes her and eventually had to wake up various family members to tell them we wouldn’t actually be home in the morning.

It turned out that the next flight to London wasn’t until 5pm the next day and all the airline’s hotel spaces were full so we had to just slum it in the airport for the next 19 hours. There was another option, to find, book and pay for a hotel ourselves and get reimbursed but none of us had enough money to pay for a last minute hotel near the airport in Miami. Instead we found a nice corridor behind TGI Fridays and bedded down for the night like a row of tacos.

18 hours to go…

The next day was wasted by moving between our base camp and the charging sockets nearby, trying to stretch our fairly meagre food vouchers as far as possible and re-re-booking ourselves on the next flight because we just by chance happened to discover it hadn’t been done properly the night before. Everything went right in the end though and we were sat by gate E23 again (what a coincidence, huh?) with plenty of time before our flight left.

8 hour flights being what they are, the first four hours flew by and the next four were excruciatingly slow. Almost 24 hours later than planned we arrived at Heathrow. After all that Lucy and I still had another flight to catch so we couldn’t hang around for long. We said our goodbyes to everyone (not too painful because we’ll see most of them in a few weeks at Debriefing) and a quick hello to everyone’s families before hopping across to our terminal.

Two painless hours later, we were pulling into the gate at Edinburgh airport and not long after were faced with home for the first time in 363 days. I have to admit that it wasn’t that emotional to see my family again – for me at least. It had been a few months since I had seen my dad and Kirsty but only two weeks since my mum and Amy left Honduras. For them though, it was the opposite. It didn’t matter to them that not that much time had passed since they last saw me. I was home again and not leaving (at least not for a while). That idea was not one I wanted to dwell on at the time, what with not wanting to be home and everything, but for them it meant a lot.

My welcoming committee

And so resumes ‘normal’ life. Once again, I don’t want to overload you so if I can get my feelings about being home into any kind of order anytime soon, maybe there’ll be a blog about it (ok, there will be, I’m not quite ready to stop annoying everyone with this just yet) but for now, yes, it is nice to be home.

Worth the wait

No Se Vaya!

It’s been a week since I arrived back in sunny Scotland and it’s as if nothing has changed. If it weren’t for the residual crick in my neck and emotional scars from the journey home, I would think that maybe I’ve just been in a coma for the past year and have a very creative imagination. Before I get into what it’s like being home again after so long, let me tell you about our goodbyes and the journey back. (The journey will follow in the next post, I didn’t want to overload everyone with too much to read!)

Our first official goodbye was with our Kinder classes. We were leaving Candelaria on a Friday and the last day we see them is a Wednesday. We walked in to find all of the tables in my classroom pushed to the side and all the kids bouncing around the room. We hadn’t been expecting anything special and had just planned to mark our departure by spending the whole lesson playing games. Instead the teachers kicked things off by saying a few words, thanking us for our effort and our patience, and then invited a few of the kids up to speak too. A big part of our lessons in Kinder revolve around songs so both classes got up and sang Wind the Bobbin Up and my class also sang the Colours Song – I was so proud I thought my heart might burst out of my chest! To finish we had cake and fizzy juice, as is customary at any Honduran celebration, and were presented with a little gift each of a Candelaria t-shirt. 

With all our little cuties!
In the words of Amy Lynch – how sad can you be when your name is on a cake?

My Kinder kids can drive me crazy sometimes but it was hard to say goodbye to them all the same. They are so adorable and for once I didn’t mind when they mounted their daily ataque (they like to swarm me at the end of class and hug me so hard that it’s not uncommon for me to have to brace myself against the wall so I don’t fall over on top of them!). I’ll miss their little faces and smiles and the fact that they only ever sing the ‘oooooooooh’ part of the Hokey Cokey. It’s weird to think that by the time I’m back (because I will be back) they’ll be proper little people in primary school. 

Our next goodbye was a dinner that evening with Lety and Victor, our second host family. They had us over and we ate cena típica (a typical dinner including beans, eggs, avocado, cheese, mantequilla and tortillas) with them. They made a big deal out of giving us a present, making us stand in the middle of the room with our eyes closed and hands out. It turns out it was a hammock! I desperately wanted to take a hammock home but had convinced myself that they were too expensive, I wouldn’t use it, where would I even put a hammock? It was perfect. This wasn’t our final goodbye with Lety and Victor and the family, because we promised to come back the next day, our last day. 

Samuel looks a little too happy about the fact that we’re leaving…

And then finally, the day that had been looming over us all year was here. We knew it was coming but that didn’t make it any easier. We still had classes and our timetable on Thursdays is actually my favourite because we have 4th, 5th and 6th grade who are my favourite classes. It felt like most of my day was hugs, goodbyes, gift from kind hearted kids, telling myself not to cry and choruses of ‘no se vaya!’ (don’t go!) which broke my heart.

Somehow we made it through, with almost no tears on my part, and to our goodbye lunch with the teachers. We ate soup and chicken with tortillas and listened to the headteacher say a few words. They also presented us with these beautiful wooden plaques and mirrors, handmade in Candelaria, on behalf of the teachers, students and parents. 

All of our fellow teachers

After that, all that was left was a few of our friends and both of our families. We did the rounds to see our friends throughout the afternoon and then had a special dinner of tamales with our host family. Later in the evening we went over to Lety and Victor’s to say goodbye to them for the last time too. Again, I managed to make it through without any tears, even when little Samuel started screaming as we left.

Part of the reason for this is that it still didn’t feel real that we were leaving. I felt like we would be back in school with the kids after the weekend or we were saying goodbye to our families for a week while we went on a visa run. Because we’d been there for so long, leaving and not coming back didn’t make sense. This was my home. Why would I be leaving?

That lasted until the morning. When it was time to say goodbye to Saida and the girls, things got very real, very quickly. We promised everyone we would come back in 4 years, once we’ve graduated from uni but who knows, it may be longer before we can see them again. Daniela and Jamie are both desperate to come to the UK though so you never know!

Mi familia
Las quiero mis hermanitos

We drove to San Pedro in a car that Victor organised for us, swinging by Tomalá to pick up Jesse and Lucy. The whole group was back together again for our last night in Honduras, minus Norome and Eva, our 8 month volunteers, who are staying another few weeks to travel.

Leaving Honduras was not easy. Even after a year, I feel like I had just settled in properly and then it was time to go. I could easily have stayed another year which made it even more frustrating that we had to leave. I wouldn’t change a single thing about this year though. The people I’ve met, the places I’ve been, the kids I’ve had the pleasure of teaching and the country that I’ve fallen in love with, I will be back. It may be in four years, it may be longer, but I will be back. 

Welcome to Candelaria, Lempira!

Welcome to Candelaria, Lempira! I’m writing this on my last day in this beautiful town and I thought it was probably about time that you got a look at the place I’ve called home for the last 12 months!

This is the view of Candelaria from what is essentially a viewpoint (not sure if that is the intended purpose, It’s basically just a layby, but doesn’t the town look good?) called the circumbalación. Candelaria has a population of roughly 800 people living in the town centre, pictured, with a further 200 or so in the surrounding aldeas of La Hacienda, Posada de Flor and El Regadillo. The mountain that’s visible is called Cerique but is commonly known only as ‘el cerro‘ (the mountain).
This is the view of Candelaria from the other side, from just below the summit of Cerrique. While it was very rewarding to climb the hill that looms over us wherever we are, it’s not something I would ever do again. Do not attempt without an experienced hand that also carries a machete! Our ‘experienced’ guides, Alex and Jonni, can be seen in the photo.
First stop on our tour is where our mornings start every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday – Jardín de Niños de Profe Marcelino Pineda Lopez a.k.a. Kinder. There are around 50 kids here split between two classes, pre-kinder/kinder for the 3-4 year olds and prepatorio for the 5 year olds. Its more or less a minute’s walk from our house.
From Kinder we walk down this rather steep but thankfully paved road (at least we’re not going up it though, right?). We go past our favourite comedor (a Honduran restaurant that is usually just the front room of someone’s house), Comedor Delmy, or as we call it, Nayely’s because our friend Nayely lives there. You can’t really see it because of the angle of the photo but it’s the bright pink facade below the blue one two thirds of the way up the photo.
The bottom half of the road above. When we swim in the river with our host sisters, we walk straight down past the pink house that is visible which leads to a nice swimming spot that has a natural slide the girls love! On our way from kinder to the escuela we take a right instead.
We continue along this road to the primary school, passing by our friend Erik’s mechanic’s workshop on the left, just out of frame of this photo.
The canchita (playing court) where we used to play football all the time is below the road above on the left hand side.
On the last stretch of the walk from Kinder to the primary school. In reality this walk only takes about five minutes. This road is always nice to walk down because it’s frequented by a variety of very colourful and very beautiful butterflies!
This is the last step (haha, get it?) on our journey to school. After the road in the previous picture we cross a bridge over the river and then the gates to the school are at the top of the steps on the right. (The girls are our host sisters, Jamie and Daniela.)
Welcome to La Escuela Urbana Mixta de Jose Cecilio del Valle!
These are what our classrooms are like. The buildings are over three different levels but I haven’t included many photos of the school here. If you want to see more have a look at my blog post Introducing: La Escuela Jose Cecilio del Valle. In total there are about 230 students. 
One of the many gorgeous views from the school. 
On the way home now, this is at the top of the butterfly street looking the other way. Many of the houses here in Honduras are painted bright colours, like you can see here. It’s one of the things that you first notice as being different to home when you arrive.  
Continuing up the road, this his hill is the bane of my life. It is every bit as steep as it looks and incredibly bumpy. I’m smiling through the pain.
After the steep road we come out onto the square from the gap on the left hand side of the photo. Our house is straight ahead on the left from this angle. On the right is the central park and as always, Cerrique is watching. 
Our house! The window on the left looks into our bedroom and the door is into the living room. Part of the main door to the house can be seen on the right.
If you go the end of our block and turn left, this is the road you are faced with. It is steep, slippery and not properly paved, all the things you want from a road and all the things you can expect from many roads in Candelaria.
At the bottom and to the left is the road behind our house, which is the green door behind the flowers on the left.
The street outside our house again from the other end. It forms one of the sides of the parque central. 
If you go anti-clockwise from our side, you’ll come to the side that has the Catholic church and is the unofficial mototaxi station. This is also where they set up the stage for the big celebrations like Independence Day or Lempira Day. 
The iconic (at least to us) Catholic church that sits on one side of the square. We have attended mass here once, on my birthday after some of my sixth grade girls invited me. We’ve also gone to the Evangelical church a lot with Lety and Victor which is a very different experience from the Catholic services. 
If you go down the street at the end of this side of the park you come to our favourite place in the whole of Candelaria – the post office! Even the worst of days could be turned around with a text from the post office saying that we had mail! Unfortunately we could be waiting a long time for our packages, I think the longest was six months! Everything we’ve been sent has arrived though, eventually!
Continuing around, this side of the square houses the municipalidad (the equivalent of council buildings) and the alcaldía (the mayor’s office).
The mayor’s office and the council buildings. 
A beautiful mural on the side of the palacio municipal (council building). 
 This is looking into the park from the third side of the square. The park in the middle is very pretty and a lovely place to sit for a bit in the afternoon, as long as it’s not too hot. Whenever there are celebrations there are usually a lot of things set up here and it’s very full. Apart from that, it’s actually pretty empty, even though there’s free wifi!
This is what the bit of the square outside our house looks like on a Sunday morning when the market comes to Candelaria. The market is a great thing for the town because it brings people fresh meat, fresh vegetables, clothes, shoes, homeware, everything they could need! It’s great, but not when they start setting up at 4am right outside our bedroom window!
Enjoying some (free) fried chicken and tajadas in the comedor area of the market. (It’s all about who you know!)
Moving away from the square, this road continues from the side of the park that we live on, with the church being on the left. Our favourite pulperería (a corner shop), Irma’s, is just visible further down on the right.
If you keep going straight, you’ll arrive at Ferreteria Genesis, our second host family’s hardware shop.
Going right and then left instead brings you upon this stunning view which you can see from the entrance to the colegio (the high school).
The colegio is much bigger than the escuela because students come in from the other aldeas once they leave primary school.
At one end of the high school there is the cancha (the court). Here there are a lot of people gathered for a dance competition that we judged.
Set up for the dance competition but usually this is where the football, basketball and volleyball teams practice.
This photo was taken down the road from Kinder. It features the public bathrooms I have never seen anyone use and would never dream of using. Seriously, hold your nose as you go past. 
Keep going and you get to, in my opinion, the worst road in Candelaria. Luckily we never really have any reason to be on this side of town so we can avoid it pretty easily. 
The only thing we’re ever on this side of town for is to go to the campo, the big football pitch. This is where we came with the escuela to practise marching for the Independence Day parade. 
The río pichigal runs through Candelaria and there is nothing more refreshing on a hot day than going for a swim. It’s not necessarily the cleanest but sometimes you’re just too hot to care! We would often take our host sisters, Daniela and Jamie, to the river to play and to try and teach them how to swim. Unfortunately it’s a skill that many of the children here lack.
There is one ‘main’ road that runs through Candelaria. At one end it goes to Gracias, 100km that takes four hours on the bad roads.
Way back when we first came and Amy and I still ran, we would run along the Gracias road until we reached this bridge where I would die for a few minutes while Amy waited patiently and then we would turn around.
At the other end, the road runs to Mapulaca, a border town with El Salvador.
The road goes uphill steeply but if you time it right, it is absolutely worth it. You get rewarded with a breathtaking sunset over the hills of El Salvador in the distance. 
And that’s it! That is basically all there is to Candelaria. I hope you’ve enjoyed having a look around my little Honduran town. Over the past year these streets have become my home and the people that walk them have become my family. It breaks my heart that I have to leave them tomorrow but I know one day I will return to walk them again. 

A Day in the Life

A Day in the Life – Monday 24th July

6am – My alarm goes off and I promptly silence it and roll over.

6.30am – I wake up in a panic that I’ve massively overslept! (It’s ok, I’ve still got plenty of time!)

6.35am – We didn’t get a wash done at the weekend because of a water cut which means we have to try and fit one in before school today.

6.40am – Time for a shower! (actually pretty warm for once!) 

6.50am –  I get dressed, today in cut-off jeans and my Project Trust polo shirt.

Oufit as pictured here

7.05am – Breakfast today is cabbage and tomatoes, beans, avocado, plantain, mantequilla and a tortilla.

7.35am – I brush my teeth, put makeup on, and then realise the water has gone off so our washing has stopped. We’ll have to wait until later to start it up again, the water usually comes back in the afternoon.

7.57am –  Before I leave to walk the minute and a half to Kinder (by myself beacuse Amy’s not feeling well today), I fill up my water bottle. Got to keep hydrated!

8am – Kinder starts. I teach the 5 year olds. It takes me 10 minutes to get them all into a circle to start singing If You’re Happy and You Know It. They won’t settle to it because they are overflowing with energy this morning so I try and get rid of some of it by playing the Bean Game. (It doesn’t work.) I give it one more attempt to do something productive, practising numbers, before giving in and singing Wind the Bobbin Up to finish. A lot of days are something like this – it can be quite hard to keep this many small children on track!

8.30am – I leave slightly early in despair. We finish anywhere between 8.30 and 8.40.

8.40am – I start walking to the primary school.

8.45am – Exactly on time, I arrive at school and start 1st grade’s lesson. We’re working on phonics with them at the minute so we recap long and short vowel sounds. Then we learn the rule that one vowel in a word means it’s a short sound. We have a workbook that we work through with this class so we fill in the appropriate page.

9.30am – Recreo a.k.a. breaktime. I sit around talking to some kids, most of whom just keep telling me not to go! Stop, you’re breaking my heart!

Little angels (appearances can be deceiving!)

9.45am – Time for 4th grade where we are learning about body parts. I draw a monster on the board that has extra arms, legs, two heads, basically a very weird looking guy and they have to write down a list of all of Mr Monster’s body parts. When they finish they get to draw their own monster. Towards the end of the class I pass around a notebook that I want them all to sign before we leave.

10.35am – I’m a little late to my 6th grade class because signing the book took longer than expected. 6th grade are also doing body parts so I do the same lesson as with 4th grade but more streamlined. I limit the amount of things they have to write about Mr Monster so they don’t get overwhelmed. I also pass the book around from the start so it isn’t a mad rush at the end.

11.15am – That’s me finished with my classes for the morning. At this time the kids get their merienda (snack, but it’s more like an actual meal).

Baleadas for merienda

11.20am – I go back to my 4th grade class as promised so they can decorate their names a bit more  in my book.

11.28am – I leave to go home for lunch.

11.29am – I remember I have forgotten to get homework from Amy’s 4th grade so she can still mark it so I turn around.

11.40am – Second time lucky right? Homework in hand I trek up the looming hill to the house.

The final (very steep stretch) on the walk home from the escuela

11.45am – Dying from the heat and the extra weight of a pile of jotters, I arrive home.

12.10pm – Lunch is rice, pasta, cheese, salad and a tortilla.

12.45pm – I have a bit of time before my class in the high school so I watch some Netflix.

1.28pm – Another minute and a half walk takes me to the colegio.

Golden hour view from the colegio

1.30pm – My only class this afternoon is 7th grade. I taught some of the students in this class when they were in 6th grade. They are practising a dance for a competition next Monday when I arrive but only take a few minutes to finish up. This class like listening to a lot of English music so one of their favourtie things to do is to translate songs. Because this is our last class, we’re doing one they’ve been asking for for a while – Closer by The Chainsmokers. At the end I have them all sign my book too.

2.25pm – I walk back the way I came to the house.

2.35pm – Even though it’s only six days until I see her again I FaceTime Amy at home and we chat for a while.

4.00pm – I read for a bit and play with our baby sister, Antonella. She’s just learned to roll over but isn’t feeling like putting on a show for me just now.

Baby Antonella!

5.00pm – Amy’s feeling better so we both go to the river with our other host sisters, Daniela and Jamie. The water is freezing but some splashing gets me accustomed pretty quickly!

6.10pm – Tacos flautas for dinner!  I requested this as they are one of my favourite Honduran meals and I wanted to have them at least once more before we leave.

Muy rico!

6.30pm – Because we’ve only got a few days left I start taking down letters and drawings from kids from the walls.

7.10pm – Amy and I went to a BBQ at the weekend and had some leftover biscuits and marshmallows so Jamie and I make use of them by making smores (or as I call them in Spanish, the marshmallow sandwiches)!

Jamie con su sandwich de malvaviscos (marshmallow sandwich)

7.30pm – More taking things down and actual packing! Ordered piles of clothes! Clothes in the backpack! It’s now half full but there’s still a whole lot left!

8.45pm – I sit (or rather lie) down on my bed to write my journal. I am proud to say I have written in it for every day I have been out here!

10.00pm – I relax a little bit, watch some Netflix, read a little more.

11.00pm – Bedtime!

¡Viva Lempira!

¡Viva Lempira! Second only to Independence Day in terms of celebrations, it feels like we’ve been waiting for Lempira Day since we got here! The celebrations were very similar to those of Independence Day back in September. Amy and I marched with the primary school through the town and up to the central park and then hung around watching the traditional dances, the songs, the exhibition of all the beautiful costumes until the big finale, the re-enactment of the death of Lempira! We also sampled some of the food and drink our classes in the high school had prepared and were selling from booths they had constructed around the square.

Lempira (lem-peer-ah) was the war chieftain of the Lencas in the 1530’s, at the time of the Spanish conquistadores. The Lencas, one of Honduras’ indigenous groups, inhabited the western regions of Honduras and there are still 100,000 in the Honduran departments of La Paz, Intibuca, Lempira and Ocotepeque with a further 37,000 in El Salvador. The name Lempira comes from the Lencan words ‘lempa‘ (lord), ‘i‘ (of) and ‘era‘ (hill or mountain). It was under the leadership of Lempira that the Lencan tribes united to fight the Spanish, with a reported 30,000 men from over 200 towns under his command.

The 20th of July commemorates the death of Lempira. There are two different accounts of his death, the more widely recognised account which is the one taught in Honduran schools, and another that was not discovered until the 1980s and tells a very different story. According to the popular version of events, Lempira was lured by the Spaniards to negotiate when a concealed soldier shot him.  The other version contests this by claiming that Lempira died not in an ambush but in combat, by having his head cut off.

Nowadays Lempira is remembered though the celebrations on 20th July. In 1931 the Honduran currency was renamed in his honour and 1943 the Gracias Department, where Lempira was from, was renamed the Lempira department. Candelaria is in the Lempira department!

We absolutely loved being part of this day, I think it was my favourite of the many celebrations we’ve had the honour of participating in this year. The costumes were absolutley beautiful. Amy and I were just going to wear jeans a Lempira tshirt but at the last minute our host mum Saida managed to find us some traditional outfits tp borrow! Among the usual gorgeous dance dresses and traditional outfits, many of the girls had used grains of rice, pinto beans, frijoles and corn kernels to decorate their dresses in various patterns, with flowers, even with outline of Lempira, the man or department, and the word Candelaria! They were incredible! Many of the boys also dressed up as Indians, which involved covering their bodies in black paint (completley unacceptable at home but just how they do things here) and wearing a skirt made of strips of material or sometimes bin bags and a bow and arrow.

Cheers!

11 Months in the Making

Once again I’ve been quiet over the past few weeks but prepare yourself for the new wave of blogs as I get all my remaining ideas out of my system in the two weeks that I have left!

The start of this month has been very busy because I’ve had a few more visitors – guess who? No, sadly the queen couldn’t make it out but Amy and my mum did manage to make the day long trip over the ocean just to see their favourite sister/daughter (delete as appropriate). It was a very tearful reunion at the airport after 11 months of messages and FaceTimes having to make up for actually seeing each other. 

This was a long time coming

Amy (Lynch) and I (the two Amys thing gets very confusing) had just finished a week of exams meaning that we had a week of holidays. Seeing as (twin) Amy is slightly obsessed with fish and coral we took her to Utila to do some diving. We met Jesse and Lucy there who also had a week off and (twin) Amy, Lucy and I embarked on our PADI Advanced diver course. 

Jesse, me, Amy (Lynch), Lucy, (twin) Amy and Lauren from our Advanced course on our fun dive

I had a a great week – we dived at a wreck, did what was basically an underwater assault course and got to do another night dive. My mum also got to celebrate her graduation from uni with the largest smoothie known to man on a tropical island while everyone else was stuck in cold and gray Edinburgh. (Twin) Amy had a slightly harder time of it. After four out of seven dives were done she became quite ill, probably from a mixture of jet lag and severe dehydration so missed out on doing one of her remaining dives. 

We left Utila on the Friday after Amy and my mum had arrived to head to Gracias, an 8 hour bus ride away. Once we arrived we just about had enough energy left to eat some food, shower and collapse into bed! 

Number one on the list of things to do while in Gracias was head out to do the zipline at La Campa. Amy (Lynch) wasn’t feeling great and decided to skip it so it was just the Morrison gals that traveled for an hour along a 16km stretch of road to confront the highest zipline in Central America. 

I’m an old pro at it by now, with this being my third time, but I must say there weren’t many nerves from the other two either. Lots of other people had had the same idea as us so it was very busy meaning we missed our bus back but that just gave the two newest ‘gringas‘ the chance to hitch home in the back of a truck! 

K, gracias, bye
Basically Honduran

The other activities of Gracias, namely the hot springs and Fuerte San Cristobal, were all ticked off before hopping onto the dreaded chicken bus back to Candelaria. Seeing our project was highly anticipated so it had a lot to live up too. 

Over the course of two full days in Candelaria, my mum and (twin) Amy got to meet all of my classes in the primary school as well as Kinder and my 7th grade class in the high school. 5th grade were a favourite for Amy because they latched on to the fact she’s studying marine biology and asked a ton of questions about sea animals. My mum liked seeing 2nd grade because they are roughly the age her P3 class will be next year.

‘Wait, you’re not Sara!’

Outside of school they met our two families. Jamie and Daniela, the girls we live with, worked their charms as did little Samuel over at Lety and Victor’s. I think everyone in Candelaria enjoyed there being two Saras (and two Amys!) in town and the phrase of the week was ‘¡Sí, se parecen mucho!’ (You look so alike!). The best way to tell us apart was because (twin) Amy is ‘tan blanquita’ (so pale)! That didn’t stop Walter from 6th grade from asking me how I managed to find a clone of my body!

Mi familia Hondureña
Mi otra familia Hondureña

The last stop on the two week tour of Honduras was Copán Ruinas. We looked around the main archeological site, which was incredibly interesting even the second time round and popped out to Macaw Mountain for the mandatory guacamaya (scarlet macaw) photo and even went back to the ruins to have a look around the museum there the morning we left. 

Our guide Virgilio next to the part of the ruins that he discovered

We said goodbye in San Pedro Sula on Saturday morning but to be honest, it wasn’t that big of a deal. It’s only two weeks until it’ll be Amy (Lynch) and me at the airport!

FIVE. WEEKS. LEFT.

FIVE. WEEKS. LEFT. Excuse me while I subdue the multitude of mixed emotions flying around my head right now… Ok that’s better.

Two big updates from the last few weeks or so, starting with Amy celebrating World Health Day. The focus this year was mental health but Amy decided to tackle the much more pressing issue we face here of dental health. Back towards the start of the year Amy emailed out to a number of dental health charities, asking for a donation so that we could buy enough toothbrushes and toothpaste to give one to every pupil in kindergarten and the primary school. Luckily enough Dentaid emailed back and have given us enough to do this for six months, so two lots of toothbrushes. 

To celebrate the day itself we gave each class a lesson explaining how to brush your teeth properly, what is good and bad for your teeth and how we can look after them better. We also set up an interesting experiment using three eggs and three cups, two of Coca Cola and one of water. You leave the egg in water alone and one of the ones in the coke alone but brush the other egg in the coke. The shell of an egg is very like the enamel on your teeth making it a great way to demonstrate the damage that sugary drinks can do. 

The plan now is for the kids to keep their toothbrushes in school and use them every day after merienda, their lunchtime. We’re aware that this one extra brushing session will not change everything but hopefully we’ve made more of a change to their attitude towards sugar and their teeth.

Next up was our last visa run to Belize that we just got back from. There was supposed to be 10 of us travelling together but after an incident involving (or rather lacking) a passport and another one where a bus stop was missed by five hours, our number dropped to 8 as Norome and Eva ended up doing their own thing. 

We were staying in a beautiful Air B&B house just outside of Spanish Lookout, a Mennonite town 45 minutes away from the more touristy San Ignacio. We spent one day just lounging around the house and ventured into San Ignacio for another, coming back with a few spontaneous tattoos (not me this time!). We were also invited to spend one evening with some of the owners of the house at a church youth group which was an interesting experience. 

Murals on the streets of San Ignacio

On leaving Spanish Lookout, the plan was to get down to Livingston in Guatemala in one day of travelling but a missed bus and a slow start to hitchhiking meant we had to stop halfway, in Hopkins, where we went for our last visa run. We stayed a night there and eventually made it to Livingston. 

Back at the Funky Dodo
Hitchhiking 150km does great things for your hair

We’re now back in Candelaria, dealing with our last ever set of exams (one thing I’m not going to miss!) while I count down the agonisingly slow seconds until Saturday morning when twin Amy and my mum arrive! I’ve decided to focus on that at the minute rather than the fact we’ve only got FIVE WEEKS LEFT!

Trips Here, Trips There, Trips Everywhere

Even though I’ve written four blogs already this month, there’s still a lot I haven’t told you about! Hard to believe but we’ve been busy, busy, busy! Out of the past six weekends, we have spent five of them outside of Candelaria so I’m going to do a little round up of our trips.

Trip 1 – Utila

This was back in April, the weekend after my dad and sister had returned home. It was a pretty spontaneous idea – we were told we had no school on Thursday because of a funeral and exams started on Friday so no English classes. We decided to take advantage, despite having just come back from a holiday. Our original plan was to go and visit Jesse and Lucy in Tomala but they were in the same situation as us and wanted to get away.

So instead we decided to go back to one of our favourite places in Honduras – the glorious island of Utila! It took us a whole day of travel to get to La Ceiba where we caught the ferry the next morning. Unfortunately we had neither the time or the money (but mostly not the money) to dive while on the island but we spent a heavenly two days swimming, reading and relaxing and two nights partying like you only can on Utila.

Nice to see you again too Utila

There was also an ulterior motive to the trip – way back in November my dad sent four packages to Utila that were supposed to arrive in plenty of time for our ten days there over Christmas and New Year. They unfortunately did not arrive for then and were MIA until March when I got an email saying they had arrived in Utila. I picked them up this time around and got to revive the Christmas spirit by sharing a box of christmas crackers around! There was also a couple of books, lots of chocolate and sweets, some jammies, balloons, glow sticks and my personal favourite, plastic glasses adorned with tropical fruit!

Nothing’s better than Christmas in April, right?

On the way back to Candelaria we made several stops, one in San Juan Pueblo to visit Eve, Alice and Peter’s project, another in Tela for a free night of accommodation and in Gracias, because we could.

Trip 2 – Lago de Yojoa 

The following weekend we were off again! Monday 1st May was Day of the Worker in Honduras which meant a day off, so of course we had to make use of it. We had the Friday off too because of student elections so stopped in on Beth and Ellie in Siguetapeque, furthering our mission to see everybody’s projects before we go home. Their school is insane! Not only is it bilingual but the classrooms look like they could have been taken straight out of the UK. After school ended we walked around Sigua for a while, trying some delicious ice cream and amazing chorizo before heading back to their cute little house.

Siguaaaaaa

It only took us a couple of hours to get from Sigua to the lake the next morning. We were joined by Lucy and Jesse from Tomala, Grace and Hannah from Yamaranguila, and Norome and Eva from San Francisco de Valle. We spent Saturday chilling around our hostel, the tranquil D&D Brewery and walking down to the river that leads to the lake.

Sunday was a much busier day! We started by riding out to Pulhapanzak Falls, where you can take a tour around the back of the waterfall. In reality it’s more like a trip underneath the falls! At some points it was hard to stay upright and I came away with more than a few bruises. On the way back to the hostel we stopped at a kayak shop and rented some to paddle out onto the actual lake, having so far only seen it from the road. It was a good half hour journey to get there but the aching arms were well worth it.

The only way to travel!
Very intimidating
This took a loooooong time to get right!

Trip 3 – Tomalá

After a weekend in Candelaria we finally got around to visiting Tomalá, technically our closest neighbouring project. Despite it being a quick four hour journey away, it actually takes two days to get there. To get to Tomalá you have to first go to Mapulaca, the border town with El Salvador about an hour away from here, and then stay the night so you’re ready for the 3am bus to Tomalá. Fortunately for us we managed to bag a lift with someone Lety knows who was heading there anyway.

We actually bumped into Jesse and Lucy on the road outside of Tomalá, so we hopped out and walked back up to the famous Las Piñonas, basically a big rock with a great view. On our way back into town we got to have a tour of the high school and met the director, the director of the primary school and their host Mertza. We had dinner that evening at a restaurant called Bamboo and got stuck there for an hour in torrential rain! Eventually we had to just make a run for it through the rivers that had replaced the roads!

Finally made it!
The view from Las Peñonas

On Saturday we had a tour around the primary school, visited their newly refurbished town park, their mind blowing kids play park, and a viewpoint that overlooks Tomalá. Tomalá is an even smaller town than Candelaria, nestled high into the mountains, making it a much fresher temperature. Norome and Eva got the bus down from their project and we spent the night with them and a few of Jesse and Lucy’s friends.

That’s pretty much it. Not kidding.

We had breakfast on Sunday with Miriam, Lety’s sister, and then got the bus to San Marcos with Norome and Eva so we could spend an hour visiting their project in San Francisco. They have a great school and we also got to meet the family that they hope to move in with soon. Our journey back to Candelaria was long but we once again managed to keep it to one day by catching a lift with someone on the final leg from Mapulaca to Candelaria.

Norome clearly has an admirer!

Trip 4 – Gracias

Another big meet up like one we had in November – almost everyone came apart from the three boys. We had a very relaxed time, not doing much through the day and then visited a mojito bar in the evening. It was the first time in Gracias for Kitty and Liv and only the second time for a few others so I think they really enjoyed the chance to come back to such a beautiful place. It was also the last time we will have this many of us in one place as those volunteers who have yet to travel leave for that in a few weeks. Possibly the most exciting part of the weekend for me was the three cockroaches I had to kill when spending Friday night in a different hotel from usual!

Trip 5 – La Unión

And finally, last weekend we embarked on a silly amount of travelling to spend roughly 16 hours in Siobhan’s project. To get to La Unión, we first spent Friday night in Yamaranguila with Grace and Hannah and then got the bus to Gracias with them the next day. From Gracias it’s a three hour bus ride to La Unión but it is breathtaking. It feels like you’re nestled in mountains.

In our short time there we managed to fit in a lot. Our first stop was Cafe Zazzo to try the famous ice cream but it was closed so we headed up to visit Siobhan’s friend, Miss Turcios. We had some coffee there during which time the rain started which spoiled our plan to walk up to Kiosco, a big wooden treehouse with brilliant views over the town.

Instead we headed down to Aviva, a restaurant set up by an American called Heather who worked in the Vida Abundante school a few years ago but didn’t take to teaching. And I’m glad she didn’t because the pastelitos, chocolate licuado and coffee that I had there were all delicious! Once again we had to make a break for it through torrential rain but this time we managed to do it in a moto taxi!

The whole crew, plus teacher Sarah in the front and Heather next to me

In other news, as well as celebrating Mother’s Day and the UNICEF Day for Change, the other day was Día del Arból (Day of the Tree). The whole school went on a school trip (trip, see how it fits in with the rest?!?) up to mini-Victor’s grandad’s house and coffee finca to do some presentations and then got to enjoy some paddling pools! It was a lovely place and I think everybody enjoyed the day. 

This is how we travel in Honduras!

Introducing: La Escuela Jose Cecilio del Valle

Almost ten months in and just as I’m about to say goodbye, I thought it was time for you all to get to know my school and my students! I imagine everyone says this but the kids really are the best part of the year, they make all the hard days worth it (even when they’re the reason why it’s a hard day in the first place) and never fail to put a smile on my face.

Kinder (Prepa) 

Prepa is the year of Kinder before they start primary school. Sometimes they can be tough. There are some very strong spirits in this class and often come in very restless and as I see them first thing on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays I have the challenge of settling them. I use games, channeling their energy into running from flashcard to flashcard, we sing songs all day long and occasionally we just sit on the floor and practice our numbers. I have sung If You’re Happy and You Know It so many times this year that I never want to hear it again. We also Wind the Bobbin up a lot and put our right arm in, our right arm out, our right arm in and shake it all about.

First grade – Profe Norma

These little guys used to be Amy’s prepa class in Kinder but are now all grown up and have joined us in the big school. While their attention span isn’t brilliant (but then whose was at age 5?), we have some very bright kids in this class, very keen and quick to pick things up. They are big fans of drawing and singing, with their favourite songs being our months of the year macarena and the days of the week song set to the tune of Chris Evan’s Breakfast show!

Second grade – Profe Aminta

We have seen a lot of changes in this class over the past year. Those that were cheeky monkeys last year and struggled to focus are now very attentive students. They participate more, their writing has improved and so has their ability to retain what we teach them. They are a very kindhearted bunch too, always ready to ambush us at the door when we arrive to smother us in hugs and our walls and their jotters are full of drawings and notes saying thank you to us and that they love us. A lot of the little girls take a great deal of pride in their jotter work, drawing lovely borders, using their best handwriting and making sure everything is perfect.

Third grade – Profe Marina

Once again, we have seen some big changes in this class. When we arrived in August they were a young and wildly immature second grade class that we had to fight to control and even had me on the brink of tears once. Now they are a stellar example of how we wish all our classes would be! They listen, follow instructions, are climbing over each other to participate but will settle down when we need them to. This isn’t to say that they don’t have their bad days, when chatting is rife and concentration is hard to find. I have a lot of love for this class, partly because of how far we’ve seen them come but also because of their continued hard work and effort. Their favourite game is a mix of chinese whispers and splat the board where they pass a word down their line and then have to touch the right flashcard on the board.

Fourth grade – Profe Rosaura

This a very lively class – they can be very loud and energetic which makes them a lot of fun to be around but difficult to reign in. They like to play games but at times their energy overflows the space that we have available in the classroom. Progress is slow going but whenever we revisit a topic, I usually have a smile on my face because they are good at remembering. They are at an interesting age in their education – a kind of make it or break it point. If they’re interested in English now, I believe it’s an interest they will carry with them. All I can do is try and light the spark and I’m doing my best!

Fifth grade – Profe Doris

The opposite has happened with this class than has happened with many other classes. As we’ve spent more time together, the noise levels have slowly increased as have some of the cheeky comments but it’s all well natured. I feel very comfortable with this class, they are all great kids and I get on well with all of them. As with most classes there are some students who have a natural knack for English and others that struggle but the common denominator in this class is the hard work. The absolute favourite in this class is without a doubt X y O (a.k.a. noughts and crosses) with hangman a close second.

Sixth grade – Profe Lucia

How do I describe sixth grade? A brilliant class, brilliant behaviour, brilliant work. I have never had any problems with this class and that is not an exaggeration. They are bright and eager, always do their best and are truly a joy to teach. What’s helpful too is that their teaches appreciates the value of learning English for them and is a big help to me in class and very encouraging to them. They have a new favourite game that I introduced them to recently, Heads Down, Thumbs Up.

And now for the grand tour!

This is our Kinder, it is approximately a 45 second walk from our house. We work here every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday from 8-8.45am. There are two classes – Pre-K which is the younger class that Amy teaches this year, full of 3 and 4 year olds, and Prepatorio who will be next year’s first grade.
 The grand entrance to La Escuela Urbana Mixta de Jose Cecilio de Valle! 
The school buildings are spread over three levels – this is the top level that houses the director’s office, 1st-3rd grade, both 5th grade classes and my 6th grade as well as the bathrooms down at the end.
The middle level of the school has the salon (basically the assembly hall), a spare classroom, the library and my 4th grade class. At breaktime they have a someone selling crips and sweets through the bars of the salon.
The salon during a school meeting
Next to the middle level is this construction. I think it used to be a kind of lunchroom but isn’t really used it anymore. We’ve seen it used once to make tamales at the start of the year.
The lower level has Amy’s 4th and 6th grade classes.
A football pitch next to the classrooms – mostly used by 6th grade boys
On the other side of the lower classrooms is this little play area. The seesaw and monkey bars are new but the swing set is deadly! I’m surprised that no one has ever gone flying off and into the river!
These tables line the playground on the top level of school and is where the kids get their provided snacks at breaktime.
And this is an example of a classroom, specifically my 6th grade. All the classrooms have tin roofs which can make them extremely hot at times but they also have fans which helps. We use the whiteboards to teach but don’t use any technology.

And there you have it, a little insight to my everyday life in Candelaria. The kids here are so special to me, even when they’re driving me crazy! Leaving in two months will be heart wrenching but I know I’ll be back one day.

UNICEF Day for Change

Some of you may remember that as part of my fundraising I celebrated the UNICEF Day for Change by with working with my old school, Newton Primary, and Belle, a returned Honduras volunteer. As part of a Global Citizenship award that volunteers can receive as part of a year abroad with Project Trust, you have to celebrate an international day and I’ve known from the start that I wanted to take the UNICEF Day for Change with me all the way to Honduras.

And last week, that’s exactly what I did! With only 45 minutes with each class at a time, I decided to take a whole week. Each class had two lessons – one that looked at differences between Scotland and Honduras and another that concentrated on ways we can look after the world – with the overall focus being on the concept and ideals of Global Citizenship.

Teaching first grade about the Scottish flag

With 1st-3rd grade we used an inflatable globe to figure out where Scotland is and just how far away it is from Honduras. Next we learnt about all of Scotland’s emblems, like the flag, national animal, bird, flower and tree. We were able to use our knowledge of colours in English to help us describe the flag but the kids were shocked when none of the animals they know in English were right and even more shocked when I told them that the national animal of Scotland is a unicorn! I bet there’s a few people reading this that didn’t know that either!

First grade working hard
Juan colouring his Honduran flag

Each 1st and 2nd grader then got two little bits of paper each, one for the Scottish flag and one for the Honduran flag so we could make some bunting out of our flags! With 3rd grade, we did something a little different. I had brought with me some packs of cut outs of little girls and little boys. With a little modification, the girls were ready to be drawn into the traditional Honduran dresses and the boys were ready to wear some kilts. It was great to see the care and creativity that went into the design of the dresses and especially the kilts. There were no cries of outrage from the boys in the class about the fact that they had to draw boys in skirts either – in fact they were all clamoring to get one!

Oscar from 1st grade
Jamie, my host sister
Karen from 1st grade
Third grade with their amazing drawings

With 4th-6th grade we ramped it up a bit. As well as looking at the flag and emblems, we talked about school, hobbies and home life and even threw in a bit of ceilidh dancing! 

For their second lesson we looked at the problems that our planet faces. Together we came up with superheroes that could combat these issues and we had some great ideas! My favourite was hypnosis that could make everyone friends so there were no more wars but we also had laser eyes to destroy rubbish and the power to breathe in dirty air and breathe out clean air to deal with air pollution. But unfortunately these superheroes don’t exist so instead we had a think about all the ways we can save the planet instead.

Gay Gordon-ing it out
SUPERHEROES!!!

Sharing this day with the kids was so much fun – it gave me a chance to talk about home to every single class, break into even more of a sweat than usual while ceilidh dancing and pretend to be a superhero (at least for 45 minutes!). We covered some very important topics that the students showed some brilliant consciousness of. They are aware that they have to be part of the worldwide effort to save this planet and I hope they will take that with them into their futures and try and share what they know to be true.