Surprise! I Moved to Costa Rica

I won’t bury the lede with this one – as the title suggests, I’m writing this from my new home in Costa Rica! How I got here is a bit of a wild ride and I still can’t quite believe it. I will say that this feels like a very full circle moment after coming here for the first time in 2015, falling in love with the country and travelling in general, and now being back long term in 2023. It all happened very quickly so writing this blog is as much to process it a bit more myself as to explain it to anyone else!

Before I get into the job and the application process, let me give a bit of background. I have history with Costa Rica that goes back to when I was 17. During the summer before my final year of high school, I spent a month in Costa Rica as part of a culture and volunteering programme with an NGO called GVI. I spent a week living with a host family and taking Spanish lessons, two weeks helping to refurbish a primary school and one week doing adventure activities like canyoning, ziplining and white water rafting. The whole experience had a profound impact on me. I think this experience inspired my love of travelling and my desire to see the world. It is also responsible for a large part of who I am now, or at least starting me on the path to becoming that person. I came back much more sure of the person that I wanted to be, independent, adventurous, confident. Below is a quote from a blog that I wrote just after getting back that is still very poignant today:

This trip has ignited a desire to travel in me, one that was already there but has now been sparked. It has also shown me the way I want to spend the rest of my life – seeing the world and helping as much of it as I can. So until next time – ¡pura vida Costa Rica!

I was able to go back to Quepos, the town where I stayed during the first three weeks of my GVI programme, the following year. I was living in Honduras and I had a couple of months off from teaching. A group of six volunteers were travelling together and this was one stop that I insisted on. I visited my host family who were very impressed with my much improved Spanish. I was also able to visit the GVI base, a different one from where I had volunteered but interesting all the same. It was nice to still feel like I was connected to GVI and step back to the past.

Fast forward eight years later, I’m very happily living the life that I’ve worked hard to make for myself. I’ve just finished teaching in France for two years, I’m travelling in Central America and Colombia for two and a half months over the summer and I’m looking forward to returning to Scotland after my trip and finding a job in the tourism industry. This is what I had planned for myself and I was really looking forward to it. Then I got hit with a very unexpected curveball.

I was sitting in a bus station in Cartagena in the north of Colombia, waiting to head to Tayrona national park. I was killing time and checking my emails when one came in from GVI. Back in May I went to an online careers day with them so they had my CV on file. I had also spoken briefly to someone from the recruitment team in June but wasn’t available for any roles because of my trip. I also didn’t really see it as something that would be on the cards for the immediate future but more something I would be interested in further down the line. I wasn’t expecting to open the email and have an offer to interview for my dream job!

GVI Costa Rica Under 18s in 2015

The position was as Education Coordinator at their community base in Cartago, Costa Rica. They were looking for someone who spoke Spanish and reading through the job ad, it was like it had been written for me! It wasn’t as a full time English teacher, something I wanted to move away from, but still working in a school, supervising volunteers that would be doing the teaching, helping them with lesson planning, building the curriculum and generally supporting volunteers through their experience. This kind of job has always been something that I’ve been interested in doing and if you look at my job history, you can see that interest permeating through. From my most recent work as an English teacher to working with young adults who want to volunteer with Project Trust, the organisation I went to Honduras with, even to staying involved with GVI as an ambassador, it felt like it had all lead, albeit accidentally, to this moment.

I immediately said yes to the interview but because of our travel plans, I was away from the internet for a few days and didn’t really think about it. When we arrived in Minca, a small, very relaxed town in the mountains of northern Colombia, I really started to prepare for the interview which would be at the end of our few days there. However, as well as getting ready, I was also deciding if I actually wanted the job! The idea of moving to Costa Rica at the end of that trip was such a wild departure from the picture I had painted in my head of moving back to Scotland. There was no easy way to get around the hard feelings so as is my way when I’m a bit stressed, I went for a swim in the hostel pool. At one point, my friend and travel buddy Hannah looked over to see me leaning against the side of the pool staring off into space, looking as if I was having a bit of a breakdown! I probably was but at the end of the swim I had figured out how I felt.

It came down to two things. First of all, this wasn’t the plan! For 8 months I had been determined that I was going to go back to Scotland, be near family and friends, in a country and culture that I am comfortable in and start working in an industry that I thought would suit my interests and skills very well. I found that hard to get over initially. But you know what they say, when you make a plan, the universe laughs. This being unexpected didn’t feel like a good enough reason to say no. I was also in a perfect position to take the job and move across the world – no house, no car, no partner or dependants to worry about. There’s no guarantee that this opportunity would come again or that if it did, I would be in as good a situation to take advantage of it. The second thing was that I wanted to make sure that I wasn’t taking the job because I felt like I should. I knew this was a great opportunity and it is literally the kind of job, maybe even the literal job, that I’ve wanted to do since I was 17 and on a GVI programme myself. I won’t take you through all of the mental gymnastics that got me to the other side of this one but by the time I got out of the pool I had decided – I wanted this job. And I really wanted it.

Not a bad place to prepare for a job interview!

Thus ensued the first interview – it went pretty well despite extremely spotty hostel wifi – and the second – ten minutes long in a hostel co-working space, still with spotty wifi – until one fresh and sunny morning in Medellín when I received an email offering me the job! Fast forward to the end of my trip three weeks later and I was flying back to Scotland for a whistle-stop, week-long visit home. I was originally thinking of heading straight from Colombia to Costa Rica to save the money on the flight from Scotland, even if I lost out on my already booked flight home from Bogotá. However, when I said goodbye to my friends and family, particularly my 96 year old grandad, at the start of my trip, it was for two and a half months, not for potentially a year! With a bit of encouragement (read pleading) from my parents and sisters, I decided that even a brief visit would be worthwhile.

A week of quality time at home was good for the body, mind and soul. I spent five days running around, catching up with friends in Edinburgh and Glasgow, spending time with my gran who had come over from Northern Ireland for the weekend, getting another tattoo, cuddling my dog, meeting my two new cats and visiting my grandad before spending the last two days packing and preparing for another move across the world. You’d think I’d be used to it by now but packing still always takes longer than I expect. One 3am start later and I was off to San José via Paris!

I’ve now been here for a week, I’m settling into life on base and getting into the routine of it here. On the whole, I do feel well prepared for Move Across the World: Part 4812596. Some of the more difficult things about starting over somewhere completely new – the isolation, lack of routine – are already abated by virtue of the job I’m doing and I already know and love Costa Rica, even if the area I’m living in is new to me. Some of the shock of being quite suddenly on the other side of the world from my friends and family when I’d been planning on the exact opposite has been abated by the fact that my sister is soon moving to the British Virgin Islands (a series of islands next to Puerto Rico in the Caribbean) and a Christmas there together might be on the cards!

I’m not sure how much I’m going to share about this job here moving forward. There will definitely be lots of general Costa Rica content and maybe one more post explaining a bit more about my responsibilities and day to day life (let me know if you have any specific questions!). Beyond that (and once I’ve gotten through my hefty backlog from this summer), you’ll have to stick around to find out!

I Can’t Seem to Stay Away

After all the drama of Montezuma and San Jose, our next stop was the relaxed town of Manuel Antonio. This is a little, semi-touristy town on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. This is the town where I spent a month last summer, volunteering for the organisation GVI and I was thrilled to be able to come back.

Our first few days were spent lazing around on some of the beaches in the area, watching incredible sunsets from our hostel and fighting off a jellyfish (that one was just me). 

Our hostel Serena Vista certainly delivered on it’s promise
Beautiful views of a beautiful beach

One evening I went into the neighbouring town of Quepos to visit the host family I stayed with for the first week of my trip last year. It was lovely to see them again and I’m pretty sure they remembered who I am! I was also able to communicate so much more with them this year as well after so much Spanish practice in Honduras. I was invited to stay for dinner and Olga’s food is just as delicious as I remembered.

With my Olga and Willy, my host parents, and Kelly, another volunteer and my roommate, in summer 2015

The project I worked on last year was in a school called Roncador and while GVI no longer work there I was given the opportunity to meet with the Country Director and visit the project they are focusing on this year, El Cocal. I’m afraid I don’t have many pictures to show from the visit – I was far too busy asking hundreds of questions!

Calum and Tom came with me and we were shown around the community centre where GVI work and where the majority of their programmes are run in El Cocal. Their work is so incredible, ranging from English lessons to daycare to after school clubs. It’s exactly the kind of thing I want to do with the rest of my life and who knows, I may even end up doing it in Manuel Antonio. 

I enjoyed my time in Manuel Antonio just as much as last time, visiting old haunts and imagining coming back here the next time and the next and the next. This was our last stop and the perfect way for me to remember Costa Rica… At least until I’m back!

Don’t Go Chasing Waterfalls… Or Jumping Off Them

I don’t know how many of my avid readers know already but Costa Rica wasn’t all sunshine and smiles for us. We faced a situation that we never would have imagined we were going to. I won’t give away any spoilers right now otherwise there would be no reason for you to read on but know that there is a happy ending. 

We left Monteverde bright and early to catch a bus, a ferry and another bus in order to get to Montezuma, a small beach town on the Peninsula de Nicoya. The town has a lovely feel to it, one that you could easily imagine losing yourself in for a few weeks. Our hostel, Luna Llena, was also one of the the most relaxed places we’ve stayed in. We spent a total of three days in Montezuma and the first consisted of very little. We visited the supermarket, took turns cooking for each other and visited the beach.

The dreamy beach in Montezuma

Then came Tuesday 6th December. The fateful day. The moment I tell you our plans for the day I’m sure you might be able to figure out what happens but hopefully you’ll stick with it. Our plans for that day were to visit the Montezuma Falls. 

It was a bit of a hike up the river to get there but you are rewarded when you reach the first towering fall with a refreshing break from the heat as the spray mists in the air. There are two more falls above and if you clamber up a steep hill face you can swim in the pool between the second and third falls. The last bit was a tough scramble so we were straight in the water. A few others and I decided to jump off the third waterfall after swimming around a bit. Before anyone starts to panic, this is the smallest! It’s no more than five metres high so just like jumping off a diving board. 

The daredevils of the group decided that wasn’t good enough so were looking at the second one, a much more intimidating 15m high. This is where things start to go downhill. Tom and Mac jumped off and were all fine but when Jesse jumped off (she would like me to point out that she actually jumped first!) she went in at a funny angle and came up with a sore back. We didn’t have too much time to consider this because when Amy was climbing back up after jumping, she fell back into the water and injured her ankle badly. 

I won’t go into the details of everything that happened over the next few hours but basically we split into two groups. Jesse, Lucy and I hiked back down to get Jesse some medical care because while she could still walk, she was in a lot of pain. You may be surprised that I didn’t stay with Amy as she is my partner but I would have been no use. It distressed me too much to see her in so much pain but I knew I could still help Jesse. 

The boys stayed with Amy and over several hours and with the help from an American couple from our hostel and the rescue team that turned up they got Amy out of the waterfall. Meanwhile at the bottom of the trail we waited for an ambulance that never came before I had to run back to the hostel, pack up some things and get picked up to meet Amy at the clinic because she was going to need to be flown to San Jose for treatment. 

Possibly one of my favourite pictures of the whole holiday (zoom in to see her smile, laughing gas is great)

It was a lot to take in but overnight bags were thrown together, plans made to contact all the relevant people and fingers crossed that everyone would be okay. Jesse and Lucy also need to fly to San Jose because of concerns over Jesse’s back so that night the four of us took our own personal planes over Costa Rica to the capital. Silver linings right? 

Still smiling (though I think the morphine might have been helping a few people in this picture!)

We spent that night in a private hospital in San Jose where Jesse was told she had fractured her T8 vertebrate (for those that that will mean something too) but thankfully it wasn’t displaced which would have meant surgery while Amy got away with a sprained ankle. 

They were given an attractive corset/brace thing, a boot and enough pain medication to let us start our own Central American drug smuggling ring and then both our invalids were discharged at the same time the following afternoon. The boys were amazing and managed to get all the bags for the seven of us from Montezuma to San Jose and were there to meet us at a hotel once we left the hospital. 

We spent three nights in San Jose, with our days spent at a mall doing some retail therapy, catching some films at the cinema and going out for a nice meal courtesy of Amy’s parents (thanks Paul and Penny, it was delicious! Also thanks to Hugo and Cathy Tristram, Jesse’s parents, for the meal they bought us a few days later!) 

This year’s Christmas card

Lessons learned from this experience – maybe jumping off a waterfall isn’t the best idea. Also, good medical cover is absolutely essential. The planes to San Jose alone would have cost $10,000, as Mac, our resident pilot-in-training told us. 

While everyone is fine now, it was a scary and overwhelming time for us, even the ones without broken backs and sprained ankles, and one we’re not likely to forget soon! 

Hitchhiking and Badger Monkeys – Not As Dangerous As You Think

Once again this blog comes to you from a bus, my second one of the day and it’s only 9.20! We are heading back up to the Nicaraguan border after a whirlwind two weeks in Costa Rica but this post will take us back to when we arrived. 

As the month went from November to December we went from Nicaragua to Costa Rica, more specifically to the town of Santa Elena, famous for cloud forests and cheese. Interesting combination, I know. Before we got there we had a border crossing which is obviously our favourite part of travelling, especially when we get conned into spending $10 on an immigration form and then ripped off when we had $20 of change stolen from us. Good times.

Very happy to be back!

Costa Rica is a richer and therefore more expensive country than either Nicaragua or Honduras. It has a much stabler and stronger economy resulting in higher employment and higher living standards. Ticos (the Costa Rican people) are some of the happiest people in the world to the extent that their army was abolished in 1948. You can’t go anywhere without hearing the phrase ‘pura vida‘ (literally pure life). It’s used as hello, goodbye, thank you, you’re welcome and in a hundred other ways and is the best way to summarise and understand the tico view of life. 

As Costa Rica is expensive and we are extreme cheapskates we were looking for as many free activities in the area as possible especially if we were going to spend $20 on entrance to the Monteverde cloud forest. This lead to what we ended up doing on our first afternoon. 

A bit of cultural trivia for you here. Before I arrived in Honduras I was a hitchhiking virgin. However in Honduras and Central America hitchhiking is much more common and possibly even safer than it is in the UK. To be fair it’s much harder to be kidnapped when you’re in the open bed of a truck, all you need to do is jump out at a red light. Anyway, back on topic, hitchhiking is something we’ve come to do more and more in effort to save money wherever we can. 

On this particular afternoon we decided we wanted to go to Monteverde’s famous cheese factory, set up by the Quakers that first founded the settlement. According to our bible (Lonely Planet’s Guide to Central America on a Shoestring) it was a bit of a walk away from where we were staying so why not hitchhike? The only problem was that with six of us and the fact that the trucks from Nicaragua and Honduras had been swapped for bulky 4x4s most people are usually put off straight away. So we decided to make it more interesting – two teams and a race to see who got there first. Winner gets eternal bragging rights. 

My team was Amy, Lucy and me and we decided to keep walking so that even if it took ages to get picked up at least we were making progress. What actually happened though is that after a while this car passed us with a speccy face and a head of curly hair peering out the back. Jesse, Tom and Calum had passed us. We got picked up a minute later though and not two hundred metres up the road we saw them where they’d been unceremoniously dumped on the pavement. 

In case you’re interested, these are what winners look like…

We made it the whole way to the cheese factory in our ride and had time for a celebratory selfie, to peruse the cheeses on offer and pick out ice cream as a prize. The others eventually made it with their new friend Jeff in tow. Jeff had followed them from where their second ride picked them up, running alongside the car and barking away. 

We got another ride back, all of us together this time and got talking to the American lady whose car it was. She was even nice enough to show us something free we could do the next day on the way back. That evening we were joined by Lucy’s friend Mac who was going to spend about 10 days slumming it in Costa Rica with us. 

Initiating Mac into the traveller lifestyle in the best way we know

It’s hard to top a hitchhiking race to a cheese factory but we tried the next day with a trip to the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde. We wanted to see some animals but were told it was unlikely because of the time of day. We must be the next David Attenboroughs though because we saw a monkey badger thing! Yeah I don’t know what it is either… If anyone does please let me know! 

Here we see what is professionally known as a monkey badger… thing…
The view across the cloud forest

In the afternoon we set off to find the free sight we’d been told about yesterday – the ficus tree. There were actually several within ten metres or so of each other and they were like something out of a fairytale. It reminded me of reading the Faraway Tree, this massive spiral leading the way into what could be another world. In reality it just got tight, damp and dark at the top but I can still pretend. 

That pretty much concluded our stay in Monteverde. We left the next morning for Montezuma, a beach town on the Peninsula de Nicoya on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. Santa Elena was a charming town that reminded us a lot of a European ski resort and at the end of our short but sweet stay we were enamoured with it. 

Both of the hostels we stayed in in Monteverde were covered in murals as was the whole town.

Costa Rica, Coffee Mornings and Count the Sweets

I’m back! Did you miss me? It’s been a while since I’ve given any updates on my progress, I know, but I’ve been away having incredible adventures in Costa Rica! For those of you that are interested I’ll tell you a bit about my four amazing weeks there. If you’re just here to see my fundraising news, skip to the end to find out what’s going on.

During my summer holidays I spent a month in Costa Rica, a Central American country separated from Honduras by Nicaragua, with a volunteering organisation called GVI. The first week was cultural immersion with seven other teenagers from all around the world – we had Americans, Canadians, more Brits and even a Swiss boy. Cultural immersion meant four hours of Spanish lessons a day, salsa class and cooking class and staying with a host family for a week.

This was one of my favourite parts of my whole trip. Staying with the host family improved my Spanish more than the lessons did because my family didn’t speak much English so it was up to me to make conversation and pass along information in Spanish. My tico family (tico is a term Costa Ricans use to refer to themselves) were absolutely amazing and I loved spending a whole week as part of their family, with an American girl from my group and two other American students they had staying with them. It was a very busy house!

My tico parents, Olga and Willy, and roommate Kelly

After spending a week in Quepos with our host families, we moved to a hostel in the neighbouring hillside town of Manuel Antonio where we were joined by another eight volunteers. The next two weeks were spent doing construction work at a school in a community called Roncador. We had two more groups of volunteers join during this time with some of the cultural immersion group leaving after a week. It was hard work under a hot sun but we got through a massive amount of work, more than anyone expected. We dug drains to stop the playground flooding, cleared, levelled and landscaped an area behind the kindergarten classroom for a new playground for the kindergarten kids, wirebrushed and painted tin panels for a new roof for the GVI English classroom, filled in the holes in the wall with cement and gave the lunch hall, kindergarten classroom, outside wall and English classroom all a fresh coat of paint!

The playground we made for the kindergarten children

One day we got to have a sports day with the kids, and while we’d seen them in their lessons and running around during their breaks this was the first time we got to interact with them. They practised their English on us and we practised our Spanish on them, and we got to really meet the people that we were doing all this work for. It reminded us all why we were there, where all our sweat and effort was actually going.

The English classroom as we left it – complete with GVI mural!

The day we left the project for the last time after two weeks there was a sad one and I think part of us wished we could stay for another week and do more. I am so proud of what we achieved throughout those two weeks and I know that the difference we have made will have a very real impact on the kids. It gives them a safer, cleaner, nicer learning environment to learn in and be proud of.

After two weeks of hard work we moved into our adventure week! We started with a trip to the Manuel Antonio National Park where we saw everything from monkeys and baby boa constrictors to spiders, lizards and crabs climbing trees and even a sloth! The next day we took to the beach where I learnt that surfing is just as hard as it looks (which is hard!) but about a hundred times more fun!

On the Monday of our last week we left the Quepos-Manuel Antonio area which had been my home for the last three weeks and drove across to the other side of Costa Rica to Turrialba. For our next adventure we went ziplining and abseiling in the rainforest before embarking on a rafting trip down the Rio Pacuare, one of the best rivers in the world for rafting. We spent two days navigating down class III and IV rapids and on the day in between we hiked to an indigenous village.

When it was time to leave Costa Rica, I was heartbroken. It is such a beautiful country, from the stunning landscape to the warm, welcoming people. Costa Rica will always be very special to me, as my first proper experience of travelling, as will the global friendships that I formed there. For now all I will say is pura vida Costa Rica, and you never know, I might make it down to see you while I’m in Honduras!

Now I am back in Scotland and back at school and it’s time to start fundraising again! This week I’m running a ‘Guess the Number of Sweets on the Jar’ at school and on Sunday morning I’m hosting a coffee morning at my house to share my stories and photos from Costa Rica.

Costa Rica felt like a mini version of what it will be like in Honduras and it has made the excitement real and given me something solid to look forward to. I can’t wait to get further into my fundraising and closer to my year on Honduras!