First Impressions of Beijing

大家好!I have safely arrived in Beijing and having spent my first two days here so I thought it would be a good idea to take you through them by talking about my first impressions of the city. I would like to preface what is to come by saying that these are only observations and some deductions of mine, I’ve not really had the chance to talk to anyone that knows the city yet so what I say might be completely wrong. Saying that, here’s what I think of Beijing so far…

Public transport is very easy to navigate.

Having arrived into Beijing airport at 5am on Sunday, with my massive suitcase in tow (I’m here for a year alright, forgive me if I didn’t pack light) a taxi proved to be too expensive to justify the ease so I turned to the Airport Express train instead. Seeing as it was still very early I had to wait until the first train at 6.35am but then it was very simple to buy the right ticket (it helped that there was an English option). Once I arrived in Dongzhimen station (东直门站) I changed to Line 2 of the metro and headed for Qianmen station (前门站). To be fair, I didn’t have to use much Chinese but I was still impressed with how easy it was to get myself where I needed to go in a city I had never been to before with a very heavy bag! And all that only cost me about 30 yuan, more or less £4!

Views from the Airport Express

The time difference is already and will probably continue to be difficult.

The whole of China operates under one time zone which is currently 7 hours ahead of the UK and once clocks go back will become 8 hours ahead. After travelling all through Saturday and with the time difference I was understandably disoriented for a lot of yesterday. While it will take some getting used to I think it will be manageable. Basically if you want to talk to me, the morning or early afternoon in the UK is the best time time to get in touch as it will be late afternoon or evening here.

There’s more English than I thought.

So far I haven’t actually spoken that much Chinese. It’s kind of understandable as I have so far been confined to very touristy spaces like the airport and my hostel. I have tried to speak Chinese a couple of times, at dinner yesterday and in Tiananmen Square this morning but either somebody speaks English or they don’t understand my Chinese! I have found myself trying to at least figure out how to say things in Chinese in my head which has been good practice. I’m also trying to take in as much as possible. It’s still hard to tune in and understand what people are saying but I try and read as many of the signs and posters that are everywhere as I can.

It can get very hot and also very humid.

I didn’t really know what to expect when it came to weather in Beijing other than knowing that it suffers from high levels of pollution and is nowhere near as humid as it is further south, like in Shanghai. That’s not to say there is no humidity at all though as it was sitting at about 70% today! It was overcast today but yesterday was bright, clear and very hot! I didn’t venture out much yesterday because I was so tired but when I went for a short walk it didn’t take long before I was sweating and regretting not bringing my sunglasses.

I’ve felt very safe wherever I’ve gone so far.

I mean, I’ve not gone far but I’ve never felt uncomfortable or the need to be hyper aware. There is obviously a certain level of vigilance needed when in an unknown city but being here by myself as a woman, I have not felt any extra scrutiny or attention. It’s busy but the crowds are not crushing, traffic is mad but not insane, I get looked at but only with curiosity rather then lewdness. Overall I’ve felt very comfortable, whether that’s while exploring the hutongs (胡同, alleys) or in the middle of Tiananmen Square.

Everything is both totally overwhelming and not as busy as I thought it would be.

I’m sure you can imagine that I was preparing myself for Beijing to be crazy busy and the whole experience of being in China a bit much to deal with. With a population of 21.5 million how could it not be? I will admit that it feels weird to actually be here after years of anticipation but the city itself, or what I’ve seen of it so far, has been a lot calmer than I’d expected.

The streets of Beijing

I’m going to get very frustrated about not being able to drink tap water.

GOD BLESS SCOTTISH TAP WATER. Always a privilege that I take for granted, having clean tap water to drink is not something that you can get everywhere. Here it is definitely not safe to drink so in an effort to save plastic and save me having to go out and buy a new bottle every few hours, I’ve been decanting a 5L bottle into the reusable one I brought with me. Who knows if it actually makes a difference plastic wise but at least it is more economical.

I have underappreciated green tea (绿茶) my whole life.

I’m not much of a tea drinker in general but when I drink it I would never betray my British roots and have anything other than breakfast tea. Last night however I had green tea with my dinner and today had a bottled, cold version and it’s so calming and refreshing at the same time.

And did I mention that the food is amazing?

Chinese menus are notoriously hard to read and are often only navigable through the photos so my strategy so far has been to ask for a recommendation! It’s been a good way to practice even a little bit of Chinese and so far it has not done me wrong! I went for a safe option of sweet and sour chicken last night and had various types of noodles and broth for breakfast and lunch today.

Don’t ask me what it was but it was delicious!

Everyone is up and about very early.

Of course jet lag hit this morning but even after sleeping for 5 hours yesterday afternoon and barely making it to 10pm before calling it a night, I managed to make it to 5am before getting up this morning. I went down to the common room (for wifi, what else) and started talking to an American guy who was also up. I ended up going out for a walk and breakfast with him and his friend and we were not alone. We got to Tiananmen Square, very near to our hostel, at about 6.30am and there were already people everywhere.

This was the Forbidden City at 7am..

People like to have naps outside Tian’anmen (天安门).

On said trip to Tiananmen square, there seemed to be a lot of people lying around right in front of Tiananmen itself (also known as the Gate of Heavenly Peace.) I don’t really have anything else to say on the matter, just something I noticed. If anyone can explain, please do.

Pollution makes it hard to take nice photographs.

An unfortunate side effect of the sky high pollution that made more of an appearance today than yesterday was that it really washed out any attempt to take photographs of what I was seeing. Not a big deal but my Instagram will suffer. Or maybe it was just a cloudy day.

I, much like the sun, tried my best here

Police are everywhere.

There are several subsections of the police in China, as far as I know, so that might explain it but I can’t tell the difference so to me it just looks like there’s a policeman (and it is all men) every 50m or so. It’s not actually as intimidating as you might think, they are mostly just observing.

There’s no litter!!! Anywhere!!!

Maybe Chinese people are just house proud, maybe it’s a part of the national conscience, maybe the street cleaners that are wandering around have something to do with it. Either way it was something that I didn’t notice until I noticed it but then I could not notice it!

They keep inexplicably closing the underpasses that are the only way to cross the very busy 8-lane roads.

This is what turned my stroll with the Americans this morning into a full blown treasure hunt for the hostel. All we needed to do was cross one (albeit very busy) road, walk down the side of Tiananmen Square again and we’d be back on the road that would take us to our hostel. Instead, all the underpasses you could use had been shut for our direction of traffic since we had come through them 10 minutes before. It did mean a lovely detour via the National Centre for Preforming Arts which is an insane building but also meant that by the time we got back to where we needed to be it was almost 8.30 and we were starving, having left the hostel two hours earlier in search of breakfast.

The National Centre for Performing Arts (国家大剧院)

Everything is shut on a Monday.

I was having a think about what to do with the rest of my day and I thought about going to the National Museum of China, on one side of Tiananmen. Closed on Mondays. Ok, what about an afternoon in the Forbidden City. Open Tuesday-Sunday. A temple? Closed, closed, closed. Note to future self.

Peking roast duck (北京烤鸭) is worth the hype.

After an accidental 4 hour nap, I woke up at 8.30pm in need of some dinner so decided to seek out some quick and easy street food – I didn’t feel like tackling a whole restaurant experience. As I walked along a street I hadn’t been down before I noticed lots of windows selling the roast duck that the city is known for. I had been wanting to try some while here but I had found it hard to find a cheapish restaurant that sells it in one person portions so this was perfect. Having attempted to order in Chinese again, I got what I wanted but not quite how I wanted it… Instead of getting prewrapped ones I was given little bags with all the bits and pieces I would need, the duck, the hoisin sauce, some sliced cucumber and spring onion and the tortilla things (that is clearly what they are officially known as). It might have been easier to get it the other way but this was definitely more fun.

Two days is just not enough.

Especially when you have been up for 26 hours on one of those days and suffering from jet lag on the other! Honestly, I’m not mad that I actually haven’t gotten up to much while here. I knew I would be tired and I already have plans to come back. To be honest I don’t think there would ever be enough time to see all of Beijing – have you seen the size of it?!

Preparations

This blog is brought to you from the depths of hell, manifested in the form of my half packed suitcase. There are clothes everywhere, a couple of pairs of shoes in the corner where they had been hiding so well that I forgot to pack them and photos, books and toiletries littering the floor. But packing is only the last thing on a long list of preparations for moving to China TOMORROW!

The first thing I obviously had to do was apply. That was done during the uni year but much later than all the other year abroad applications. It was fairly easy, after I actually decided where to go, just filling in a few forms and thankfully none in Chinese yet.

That was the first step but the last for a while because exams became much more important. Exams in themselves could actually be considered as part of the preparations. In order to go to China on a year abroad, all students have to achieve at least 50% in their degree courses and exams so that they can continue to honours. You’ll all be glad to hear (but probably not surprised considering this blog is happening) that I managed to do that so all was good!

First up during the summer was to book flights and get myself a Chinese visa. Flights were not complicated to find, I’m flying from Edinburgh to Manchester and then direct to Beijing. I decided that I wanted to have a few nights in Beijing before flying to Dalian to give myself some time to acclimatise a little, rest up and explore seeing as this will not just be my first time in China but also Asia!

The visa process was a little more complicated though not as much of a nightmare as I’ve heard it was for others. Fortunately for me there is a Chinese visa application centre in Edinburgh so I didn’t have to go far to get it all sorted. The only bump on the road was that I was told I had to get my university in Dalian to send my JW202 form to the Chinese consulate before the visa process could be started . A little annoying and meant a few extra trips in but not a big deal in the end.

Other than that there’s been little bits and pieces like buying insurance, contacting my host family and more. While I was dealing with all these things though, I was still wrapping my head around the idea of actually leaving and the mental preparation proved to be the hardest part.

Even though I have done this before, leaving for a year to the other side of the world, the mental preparation has felt a little different this time (I’m planning a blog post talking about some comparisons between leaving for Honduras and leaving for China soon so there will be more on that there). I found the idea of leaving a lot harder this time and it also felt like leaving crept up on me a lot faster. I was focusing on exams and then I was working and then it was August and suddenly I was leaving at the end of the month! This meant that my excitement about going also crept up on me but was very quickly joined by nerves and even terror.

Part of this was just due to not feeling prepared or organised so that was easily remedied but the rest was just at the magnitude of what I was about to do. Everything about China seems a lot more daunting – the fact that I’m studying not teaching, a harder language, a more distant culture. I know I can do it, because I already have once before, but it was something I, and everyone around me, had to remind me almost constantly over the summer. I know I can, I know I will and I know I’ll love it. I think I’ve said it enough times now that I actually believe it.

Why Dalian?

When it came time to choose where I wanted to spend my time studying in China, it seemed like lots of things pointed to Dalian.

One of the first ways I was able to pick out Dalian was through a process of elimination. The Chinese department at Edinburgh University give students five choices for where they can go for their year abroad – Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Dalian and Taiwan. I was able to get rid of a few options immediately. My personal tutor had told me that if I went to Shanghai I’d probably end up speaking more French than Chinese. He might have been joking but I still felt like Shanghai wasn’t for me and for some reason I didn’t really fancy Hangzhou either, probably because I’d heard that it’s a fairly expensive city. I ruled out Taiwan because they use traditional characters there, also know as complex characters, and I had a feeling that this was going to be hard enough so why make it more difficult for myself?

So then there were two. Beijing appealed to me because of the university. Peking University is one of the best in the world and the more I heard about the classes, the more I knew it would be intense and challenging – just what I wanted. I also began to hear what electives are available – think calligraphy, tai chi and the sort. Beijing is also the capital city and so in some ways could be seen as the heart or centre of the country and it was very tempting to become part of that and to make it my home.

On the other side there was Dalian. A completely different city from Beijing, on the coast, with a population of ‘only’ 6.7 million people compared to Beijing’s 21.5 million. There were some little things that drew me to Dalian over Beijing, one being that its a lesser known place and I’m always drawn to the more off the beaten track options. Living in Dalian seemed like an opportunity that might not present itself to me again in the same way that Beijing might in the future. I also learned from a 4th year Chinese student who had just gotten back from studying in Dalian that most of the other international students come from Japan, Russian and South Korea. This means that a lot of communication, even outside of the classroom, is done in Chinese as that is the language that everyone shares.

When it comes down to it though, the main reason I chose Dalian, the reason that swung everything to its favour and the reason that Beijing never really stood a chance was this – in Dalian you can live with a host family. While its definitely not everyone’s cup of tea, its most definitely mine.

I lived with a host family while I was in Honduras and got so much out of it. It was obviously a massive help when it came to improving my Spanish and was probably the main reason I came away fluent. Being forced to communicate in Spanish at all times, whether I needed something or was just chatting, was exhausting but also gave me more than just new vocab. It opened my mind to the thinking going on behind the language and revealed parts of the culture to me that would otherwise have been hidden.

These are all reasons that I wanted to live with a host family again while living in China. I know that its the best way to force myself into complete immersion in Chinese, which to be honest is exactly what I need. It’s also nice to know that I will have the support and guidance of the family behind me.

At the end of the day my choice came down to wanting to get the absolute most out of this experience that I can. I haven’t been learning Chinese for very long so this is the ideal opportunity to improve my ability level and I felt Dalian was the place I could best do that.

Back to Blogging

It’s been four long years since I first set foot in a blog. I had just started fundraising to spend a year teaching English in Honduras between high school and university and thought it might be a good idea to document it, both for myself and for anyone else that wanted to read it. Fast forward two years and I’d built a fantastic time capsule into my time in Honduras that I was very proud of and could always look back on.

I’m now only a few days away from once again moving halfway across the world to live somewhere completely new for a year. This time I’m heading to China to study there as part of my university degree, which will be followed by spending the summer in France.

While it took a lot of time and energy to build the blog that I created while in Honduras, it was absolutely worth it and I really want to create that kind of snapshot again for my time in China.

Some people might remember the kind of things I wrote about on my Honduras blog but for those that weren’t there for that, I covered the day to day, week to week goings on, keeping everyone up to date with what was happening in my life but also wrote more in depth posts about food, my town, my school, cultural holidays and some fun survival guides.

I hope to do similar things with this blog. Something I want to experiment with this time is keeping general updates shorter but more frequent than last time and still having longer feature posts. Obviously this is all dependant on internet access but I have my finger crossed and I’m excited to get back into blogging again!

Returning Home to Honduras

I’m back, back, back again! It’s been a long time since I’ve stretched these particular muscles but I have to say I have missed annoying everyone with complaints and dreary day to day movements… ahem I mean cultural insights and inner observations. But anyway, I’m back for one more blog post and one more only! 

As some of you will already be aware I recently returned to Honduras for a whistle stop visit. I was in New York with my family and in my head New York is pretty close to Honduras (news flash: it’s not, it’s still six hours and several flights away) so I thought I had better seize this opportunity lest I have to wait until after university as I had previously thought I would. I was prepared for going back to be an emotional experience in all kinds of ways and it was – it was a very reflective week and gave me a lot to think about which is why I’m back!

Welcomed back to Gracias in style

One of the things I was most excited about was being back with my host family. In the past two years the girls, my host sisters, have grown up a lot, especially Antonella who has gone from a few-month-old baby to a walking, (almost) talking toddler! She obviously had no idea who I was but by the end of my first day back she was already calling me tía, which means aunt in Spanish, which I’ll happily take! Jamie and Daniela had also grown up lots in the few years I’d been away. Jamie was my little shadow while I was there, never letting me go anywhere without her. She is a very nurturing girl and really loves looking after her little sister. Daniela, as ever, is the more independent of the two and this quality has really come out in the past two years. 

Jamie, Antonella and Daniela

As great as it was to be back with family, there was a more mournful side to things. Less than two months before I visited, my host dad Jaime passed away after an extended illness. It has obviously been a very difficult time for everyone, especially my host mum Saida. She has had great support from her family and friends in Candelaria and elsewhere in Honduras, now and throughout his illness but it had been frustrating for me being so far away. There was obviously very little I could do other than tell her I love her and give her my support, but even that felt insufficient as I tried to convey it adequately in Spanish. At the end of the day being back, however briefly, was a little more poignant for me and for Saida after this hard time. Just being able to give her a hug meant so much.

Ice lollies at 9am… why not?

During my visit, however short, I was once again surprised by the generosity around me. This was not something new to me seeing as when I first arrived in Honduras and throughout the whole year everywhere I turned I was met with tremendous generosity and such a warm welcome. Now, back again, I couldn’t walk down the street without meeting a friend that wanted me to come round for coffee or go and get something to eat. An especially heartfelt thank you goes out to Saida, who fed me, put me up in my old room and wouldn’t accept anything from me all week. 

I also spent a lot of time with my friend Karen Yanina, who came running with me and Amy a few times back in the day. Her son Alejandro is also in Jamie’s class at school and good friends with the girls. She has just had a baby as well as having recently opened a clothes tienda and started taking beauty classes in El Salvador. She was kind enough to give me a tshirt so I could rep Honduras once I got home, do my nails for me and come over to Saida’s and make baleadas – my favourite!

With baby Luna Jazmín

Of course I also spent some time with my other family in Candelaria, Lety and Victor’s family, who in my year were the organisers of the project. From the year after me, they have also been the host family for the next generations of Project Trust volunteers. Unfortunately this year’s volunteer was on a visa run while I was visiting so I didn’t get to meet her. One of the first nights I was in Candelaria, the evangelical church that Lety and Victor belong to was having a special service in the town square with some guest speakers and musician. While I’m not religious, I went along with Karen who is also a member, as church was always a good way to practice my Spanish and I especially enjoy the enthusiasm and music that accompanies any service in the evangelical church. I also obviously couldn’t leave Candelaria without procuring, as per my dad’s request, some specialty Honduran coffee from Victor’s dad’s coffee finca

Mi segunda familia

Unfortunately I arrived on the last day of school before the Easter holidays and after the end of the school day so I wasn’t able to go into the primary school and see all of my students again but I ran into many of them all across town, at church or while out playing with the girls. Even though I was occasionally faced with a kid who couldn’t remember exactly which gringa I was, most of them immediately knew who I was followed by a chorus of voices asking where Amy was! I assured them she’d be back as soon as possible, we’ve even talked about coming back together once we both graduate from university in another two years. 

It amazed me how quickly I fell back into old habits once I arrived in Honduras. From the second I landed everything felt familiar, from the oppressive heat and humidity, to being surrounded by Spanish, to the smell of frijoles wafting through the air. Some things came back to me almost immediately – my Spanish for one. This is unsurprising seeing as it had gotten to a high enough level during the year I spent speaking it every day that I can call it back very easily, even if I haven’t spoken it in a while. What did surprise me though was how quickly I fell back into the Honduran way of speaking, not just slang but also the way sentences are phrased and the gestures and body language that accompanied speaking. Eating using my hands and tortilla more than the actual utensils was also an easy enough habit to reclaim, though I have to say, getting used to putting toilet paper in the bin instead of flushing it took a little longer to get used to again!

In the time since I have left Honduras I have often been quite hard on myself, quite critical of my time there. I felt like I could have done more, had more of an impact, made more of the time I had. This visit was able to assuage a lot of those feelings. While I knew I had come away from Honduras with a new family or two, I sometimes questioned if I’d actually made any lasting friends. I said before that every time I was out of the house I would bump into someone I knew and have a chat if not a cup of cafe, proving these worries wrong. I visited my friend Enedina, who lives on the edge of town and who Amy and I made soup with in the early days of our year. I caught up with Eric, the boyfriend of a volunteer from the year before me over a cool bottle of Fresca. I got my hair cut (quite drastically!) by Edwin, the only fluent English speaker in the village, for the bargain price of 50 lempira (less than £2). I bumped into a number of teachers from the kinder, escuela, or colegio on the streets and chatted with friends in comedores, on the football pitch or even the town radio and had others messaging me, even if I wasn’t able to see them. It was incredibly heart-warming to return to a place I consider home with such a welcome. 

Another thing I questioned was whether I had actually made a difference. I want to be careful here not to stray into any sense of saviourism, expecting to change and improve an entire town or culture in one year at 18 years old. That is never what I wanted or expected to do. But as a teacher I at the very least wanted to be able to pass on some new skills and knowledge to my students. There were definitely days while I was still in Honduras that it all felt futile – second grade just wouldn’t sit still, fifth grade wouldn’t stop talking, sixth grade were out of class for the second time that week and no one could remember the same thing we’d been learning for the past month! But there were not as many of these bad days as there were good ones. It was encouraging, two years down the line, to see the kids more confident when I asked them about what they had been learning or quizzed them on some things that I had taught them. Language learning is, after all, an ongoing process and while they may not remember every word I taught them while I was their English teacher, I might just have laid the foundation for lifelong learning, just as I’d hoped. 

In this same vein, it is so great to see the project in Candelaria transforming into something hopefully more long term, as it welcomes its fifth year of Project Trust volunteers after the summer. Amy and I were only the second year of volunteers and thus felt the burden and responsibility, mostly self-imposed, of ensuring the PT volunteers had a good reputation and presence so that this could become something sustainable as we so desperately hoped. At times this felt limiting as we were more reserved, less political, less involved at times than we might otherwise have been. However on returning and seeing the project still running, and hearing about the positive place volunteers now have in the community and how involved and assimilated they have become, I feel like it might just have been worth it. 

Views of the town square

While some worries of mine have been put to rest after returning to Honduras and Candelaria, I have come to accept others. Sometimes I felt like I should have done more with my time in my town, gone out more, gotten more involved, and so on but after returning I found I had forgotten one very important thing – its bloody hot! I was drinking litres and litres of water every day and was still exhausted just from wandering around town. The sun beats down from about 8 in the morning until at least 3 or 4 in the afternoon, depending if it’s the wet or dry season. And I wasn’t just teaching in that heat during my year, I was doing it in jeans! I understand how most days I wanted to spend my afternoons having a nap until it was a little cooler or sheltering from the high temperatures by sitting in front of the fan. I would never use the word regret when talking about any aspect of my year in Honduras, apart from the fact that it couldn’t have been longer, and I think I need to go a bit easier on myself with a lot of these things.

There is a difference, however, in giving myself a break and looking back with rose tinted glasses. As much as I loved my time in Honduras and wouldn’t change it, I have always made sure to remember the bad with the good, not that there was much, just to make sure I am remembering things realistically. Being back did sharply remind me that I didn’t enjoy every single moment of the year. There were times when I was ill, times when I was homesick (usually the same time), times when me and Amy argued (we lived together for a year though, can you blame us?), times when I felt frustrated with the work we were doing and times when it all just felt a bit too overwhelming. However, you have to take the bad with the good and without it I wouldn’t have had the same experience, taken away the same things or appreciated the good times as much. 

I managed to achieve some tremendous things in the year I spent there. Not only did I gain a home and a family on the other side of the world, I made lifelong friends in the form of the other volunteers, some of whom are still my best friends. I lived away from home for a year, without seeing my family for most of that time, showing myself I can handle things on my own. I overcame challenges such as hospital trips and rowdy children. I became fluent in a language that I still love to speak. I curated a blog which provides a powerful look back on to so many aspects of my year, for me and for others. I became a teacher and experienced everything that comes along with it. I cherish all of these things and endlessly appreciate the fact that I had the opportunity to achieve them. If you are one of the many kind people who supported me in any way to get me there in the first place, thank you again. You’ve no idea what you helped me do. 

From One Person to Another

I feel like I’ve always struggled between being the person I am, the person I think I should be and the person I want to be. I was never really happy with the person I was until returning from a volunteering trip in Costa Rica when I was 17. After that I felt I wasn’t quite who I wanted to be, but as if that person was in sight, reachable. I had caught a glimpse of the kind of life that I wanted and the kind of me that I could be in that life.

On returning to school, I felt restless. All of a sudden I knew what I wanted to be doing and it wasn’t being stuck in a classroom in dreary Scotland. I struggled to keep myself settled throughout the year and keep my patience with those around me who, I felt anyway, didn’t understand what I was going through. 

At this point I had already applied and been selected for a year in Honduras with Project Trust and, quite honestly, I just felt like I was wasting time until I could get away again. With the exam results I needed in my back pocket, I focused all my energy on fundraising. I jumped at the chance to go to any Project Trust event and whenever I was there, with other Project Trust people, I felt completely at ease. It was the most like myself I had felt since leaving Costa Rica. 

Honduras drew closer and closer and eventually I was right on the verge of leaving. One last trip to Coll to Project Trust headquarters for our training and then I would be off. Meeting all of the volunteers for the first time felt like meeting up with a group of friends. I don’t think I’ve ever heard a phrase used so often but ‘like minded people’ really is the best way to describe the connection I felt with the rest of my group. It takes a certain calibre of person to decide to move across the world to embark on a year of teaching with very little preparation or training and at only 18 years old! It is this part of us that was attracted to the each other when we met, even if we were different in other ways. Around these people, I didn’t have to think about how I acted or care about what they thought of me. I was able to just be me.

It goes without saying that I have gained an inordinate amount from my time spent in Honduras working as an English teacher. Some things are hard to measure, like the confidence I now have in myself and my abilities and the view I have of the world, but others, like the skills I have gained from being in the classroom and my language acquisition, are very tangible. 

As with any job, there are myriad skills to be gained from the experience and a year with Project Trust is no different. After a year of doing nothing else, I am obviously considerably more comfortable standing in front of a class and teaching and my ever present organisation has been put to good use but I have also developed others skills that have not been so strong in the past. Tolerance has definitely been key at various moments throughout the year, sometimes with my pupils if they won’t stay quiet or focus on the task at hand but also with myself, when the limits of my language or previous experience as a teacher restricted my ability to deliver an effective class. My people skills, while not necessarily lacking when I left for Honduras, have been enhanced by not only having to deal with people in a different language but also with different social cues and expectations. 

One of the more unexpected but most significant areas I have developed has been in my adaptability. Before Honduras, I would let small issues stress me out and everything had to be on time, arranged in advance and I had to know everything that was going on. After living the chaotic lifestyle that is Honduran to the core, I have learnt to adapt a more tranquila attitude. Things happen when and how they happen and there’s not much you can do to change that so why worry about it? This has been somewhat hard to translate into life back in the UK but I’m trying.

Spanish was a crucial part of my decision to spend my gap year in Latin America. My aspirations to become near fluent had an effect on my university decision as well – I chose to study French with Chinese instead of Spanish – so it was important to me that I learnt as much as possible. Language is an integral part of any culture so not only have I improved an invaluable skill, it has also enhanced my understanding of the people and the way of thinking of a vibrant country and region of contrasts. 

There is so much more than this however. The understanding of Honduras that I have achieved after living there for a year is the the kind of understanding that can only be attained with this kind of total immersion in a place. This has exposed me to the thoughts and motivations behind a clearly different style of life to my own, which is something that most people, even those who have travelled widely, may not ever get to see. Understanding a culture means understanding its language, its history, its landscape, its people and so much more. 

Meeting so many people from across the globe while travelling has also shown me there are so many options in life. There is not one set path – life does not have to be school, university, then work. I have seen the many paths you can take and working in the role I have has confirmed the path that I want to take. In my head, my future has always held travel. As this thought grew to become more realistic ideas for a career path, I expanded on that to three criteria: I wanted to travel; I wanted to learn foreign languages and use them; and I wanted to do something to help other people. My trip to Costa Rica introduced me to the idea of working for overseas organisations but it was still vague at best. I now know that I do want to work in this field with charities and NGOs, specifically with education, social development and women’s empowerment. 

As I have said, I have always felt caught between the different versions of me that there are and could be. If Costa Rica opened the doors for me to become the person I wanted to, Honduras had me stepping through those doors. It amazes me how much my self confidence has grown in just a year and with all the changes I have faced I feel more ‘me’ than someone else. It’s like I’ve always been this person but she just needed the right opportunity to come out. I used to feel very self conscious, something not a lot of people might have realised because I was quite good at pretending I didn’t care what anybody else thought of me. Now I actually don’t – I realise how many different types of people there are, either in appearance or personality, beliefs or ambitions, and that all of these should be celebrated. 

Coming home was the hardest part of the year by far. I can see the difference in myself after this year and leaving behind the place responsible for all this positive change pulled at something inside of me. The other volunteers that I had spent the year with had become my family and have been big influences on me. Saying goodbye to my Project Trust family was hard because I was worried that I would be saying goodbye to all the ways I’ve grown this year and I don’t want to. Moving backwards makes it very hard to move forwards. Fortunately this doesn’t seem to have happened, so far anyway, and I’m hanging on tight to make sure it never does!

Being back in Dunblane has been strange. It doesn’t make sense to my mind that I’m back where I was a year ago after having everything be new and exciting. I feel like I’m 17 again and still figuring out who I am and who I want to be. Now I feel like I have that at least partly figured out, being back in Dunblane is making it very hard to reconcile the two feelings. I know I don’t want to go back to how I was before but I feel like Dunblane sits on the new parts of me, the more outgoing, relaxed, adventurous parts and says ‘Sorry, there’s no room for that here’. It’s suffocating and I have been eagerly watching the clock counting me down until I move to Edinburgh for my next adventure. Dunblane will always be my home but I’m not sure I fit here anymore, or that I necessarily ever did.

As I sit on the cusp of my next adventure, it may feel like my Project Trust adventure is over but that is definitely not true. I will not, and cannot, let go of something that has given me so much without giving at least a little in return. Project Trust has done so much for me that I will never be able to adequately put into words and I know that a large part of what is to come will be a result of the experiences I have had throughout my year in Honduras. I want to thank them in a million ways for the effect they have had on me but nothing seems enough. Thank you for this opportunity, thank you for my life-long friends, thank you for giving me a family on the other side of the world, thank you for bringing me out of myself and into the world. Thank you. 

¡Hasta Luego Project Trust!

Don’t worry I’m still here! I have been back in Scotland for a month now and it seems like my time has been split between wishing I was back in Honduras and pretending I am by doing a PT road trip to see Amy in Surrey, Jesse in London and Lucy in Edinburgh. 

Project Trust Debriefing 2017

The last step of the Project Trust journey, after the inevitable, crippling reverse culture shock, is Debriefing. It’s our last chance to get up to Coll and spend a few days surrounded by the only people that are still willing to listen to gap year story after gap year story. It’s not a compulsory course like Training but out of our 20 Honduras volunteers we managed to get 16 of us there – Hannah, Eve, Alice and Norome, you were missed. We were reunited with some of the volunteers we were on Training with who went to Zambia and also had Malawi, Japan and the Domincan Republic volunteers with us. Because we have such a large group, even with our missing members, we made up more than half of the total number!

I took the train up to Oban for the first time, having had a lift and then taken the bus for my previous journeys, and it was incredibly beautiful. There was a big group of us on the train and we were reunited with everyone else in the beloved Backpackers Plus hostel. 

We had two full days back in the Hebridean Centre. The first day was based primarily on looking back on the year we spent overseas. We worked in our country groups with our Overseas Coordinator to look back on our best bits and the challenges we overcame while away. We ended the day with a trip to the gorgeous beach (only gorgeous because it was so sunny!).

Yes. This is Scotland.

Day two focused more on looking forward to how we, as returned volunteers, can stay involved in the PT community. The sense that you get as part of one of Project Trust’s many groups of volunteers is very much one of family. These people that you have been sent away to the other side of the world with you quickly become your family but on coming home it’s like meeting all the extended aunts and uncles and cousins that are all there for you. Just like in Honduras, everyone is related! There are Facebook groups and reunions and local meet ups and professional opportunities all to be found among the 7,700 and something returned volunteers, dating all the way back to 1967!

The legend that is Peter Wilson PT and some of the Honduras gals

It has been almost a week since the ‘official’ end of my year overseas but definitely not the end of my involvement. Project Trust are always looking for people to go into schools and talk to pupils about their experiences, inspire the next generation of teachers and social care workers and adventurers for them to send all over the world. With Global Citizenship being such a large part of going overseas with Project Trust, returned volunteers also go out to schools and run workshops on this in primary and secondary schools. With the experience I have of this from my fundraising, I think if I hadn’t signed up I would have been chased from Coll and told never to return! Finally, as part of a new scheme, you can become a mentor to a volunteer who is in the process of fundraising for their year abroad – you can share your top tips and secret strategies as well as all your best stories (probably best to keep the bad ones under wraps to begin with!).

As ever, no Project Trust course or visit to Coll would be complete without a ceilidh to finish things off in style! What with there being two Latin American countries in attendance, traditional Scottish dancing soon morphed into a reggaeton/bachata party!

Project Trust tradition states that windows MUST be drawn on

Leaving Coll the next morning was a sad affair, though I hope to be back next year as summer staff. Once again, the train back down to Glasgow was filled with PT people. Amy stayed one more night at my house before flying back down to Surrey. This was our final goodbye for the summer, after having seen each other three or four times since getting home. I know it won’t be that last goodbye however, as we already have plans for a trip to Prague at Christmas with Jesse and Lucy and Amy is coming up to Edinburgh for a rugby match in February.

Best partner ever

As for the rest of my Honduran lot, there were a few goodbyes in Oban and some more when we got off the train in Glasgow. A few people stuck around in Edinburgh for a few days and we had one last night out together before we all went our separate ways.  However, apparently there’s already a reunion in the works and I’ll be at uni with Hannah and Eva in Edinburgh, with a lot of people not far away in the likes of Glasgow and Aberdeen.

Coll is such special place because of all it embodies. It is an integral part of any volunteer’s Project Trust journey. It is there for you on Selection when everything is filled with excitement and you can’t wait to get started. It is there on Training when you are are wondering what you’ve gotten yourself into. It is there to welcome you home on Debriefing, showing you that it’s not all bad to be back. It encompasses the heart of Project Trust and all the people you meet along the way, from the staff to the other volunteers even to the people you meet in your project. Coll is a place I love and will always love for I will forever associate it with the best year of my life. 

Project Trust Honduras volunteers 16/17

Worth the Wait

With our goodbyes all done, the only thing left to do was to actually leave but apparently Honduras was just as reluctant to say good bye to us as we were to it. Please fasten your seatbelts folks, we are now approaching some turbulence.

Our journey home was composed of at least two flights for everyone, from San Pedro Sula to Miami and then Miami to London Heathrow. For some of us there was one more, onwards to Edinburgh, Inverness, Aberdeen and even Budapest. We arrived at the airport in SPS in plenty of time (none of us wanted a repeat of what happened at Christmas when we missed our boat to Utila – we weren’t quite that desperate to stay) but were told that our flight was delayed by 45 minutes. Not so bad but as we waited our departure time kept getting later and our wait longer. We eventually left just over two hours late but because our layover in Miami was originally three hours long, the delay meant that we had very little time to get through the monster of an airport that is Miami International.

Adios!
An accurate representation of our feelings about leaving Honduras

We touched down at 8pm and our flight left at 8.40pm so as soon as we were off that plane, we were sprinting, bags flailing, flip flops flapping, cursing our lack of fitness. We managed to bag a flashy fluorescent orange pass that let us skip queues which worked until we got to security where there was a separate queue for others with the same flashy card so we couldn’t skip it. Another issue was that we came through security at gate D26 and our gate was E23. It sounds worse when I say that the D gates go up to 60. And we had 15 minutes. We were told we weren’t going to make it but we tried anyway. Amy and Sophie were sent ahead without their bags so they could sprint to the gate and maybe get them to wait for the sweaty, hopeful group of 16 other teenagers that were on their way.

It didn’t work. Amy and Sophie got there two minutes after they had closed the gates/the plane had left so by the time the rest of us got there there was nothing we could do. We had to traverse our way back across the terminals we had crossed to the rebooking desk where we waited for an hour and half, witnessed a show of crazy that you can only see from someone who has missed multiple flights and thinks the world owes her and eventually had to wake up various family members to tell them we wouldn’t actually be home in the morning.

It turned out that the next flight to London wasn’t until 5pm the next day and all the airline’s hotel spaces were full so we had to just slum it in the airport for the next 19 hours. There was another option, to find, book and pay for a hotel ourselves and get reimbursed but none of us had enough money to pay for a last minute hotel near the airport in Miami. Instead we found a nice corridor behind TGI Fridays and bedded down for the night like a row of tacos.

18 hours to go…

The next day was wasted by moving between our base camp and the charging sockets nearby, trying to stretch our fairly meagre food vouchers as far as possible and re-re-booking ourselves on the next flight because we just by chance happened to discover it hadn’t been done properly the night before. Everything went right in the end though and we were sat by gate E23 again (what a coincidence, huh?) with plenty of time before our flight left.

8 hour flights being what they are, the first four hours flew by and the next four were excruciatingly slow. Almost 24 hours later than planned we arrived at Heathrow. After all that Lucy and I still had another flight to catch so we couldn’t hang around for long. We said our goodbyes to everyone (not too painful because we’ll see most of them in a few weeks at Debriefing) and a quick hello to everyone’s families before hopping across to our terminal.

Two painless hours later, we were pulling into the gate at Edinburgh airport and not long after were faced with home for the first time in 363 days. I have to admit that it wasn’t that emotional to see my family again – for me at least. It had been a few months since I had seen my dad and Kirsty but only two weeks since my mum and Amy left Honduras. For them though, it was the opposite. It didn’t matter to them that not that much time had passed since they last saw me. I was home again and not leaving (at least not for a while). That idea was not one I wanted to dwell on at the time, what with not wanting to be home and everything, but for them it meant a lot.

My welcoming committee

And so resumes ‘normal’ life. Once again, I don’t want to overload you so if I can get my feelings about being home into any kind of order anytime soon, maybe there’ll be a blog about it (ok, there will be, I’m not quite ready to stop annoying everyone with this just yet) but for now, yes, it is nice to be home.

Worth the wait

No Se Vaya!

It’s been a week since I arrived back in sunny Scotland and it’s as if nothing has changed. If it weren’t for the residual crick in my neck and emotional scars from the journey home, I would think that maybe I’ve just been in a coma for the past year and have a very creative imagination. Before I get into what it’s like being home again after so long, let me tell you about our goodbyes and the journey back. (The journey will follow in the next post, I didn’t want to overload everyone with too much to read!)

Our first official goodbye was with our Kinder classes. We were leaving Candelaria on a Friday and the last day we see them is a Wednesday. We walked in to find all of the tables in my classroom pushed to the side and all the kids bouncing around the room. We hadn’t been expecting anything special and had just planned to mark our departure by spending the whole lesson playing games. Instead the teachers kicked things off by saying a few words, thanking us for our effort and our patience, and then invited a few of the kids up to speak too. A big part of our lessons in Kinder revolve around songs so both classes got up and sang Wind the Bobbin Up and my class also sang the Colours Song – I was so proud I thought my heart might burst out of my chest! To finish we had cake and fizzy juice, as is customary at any Honduran celebration, and were presented with a little gift each of a Candelaria t-shirt. 

With all our little cuties!
In the words of Amy Lynch – how sad can you be when your name is on a cake?

My Kinder kids can drive me crazy sometimes but it was hard to say goodbye to them all the same. They are so adorable and for once I didn’t mind when they mounted their daily ataque (they like to swarm me at the end of class and hug me so hard that it’s not uncommon for me to have to brace myself against the wall so I don’t fall over on top of them!). I’ll miss their little faces and smiles and the fact that they only ever sing the ‘oooooooooh’ part of the Hokey Cokey. It’s weird to think that by the time I’m back (because I will be back) they’ll be proper little people in primary school. 

Our next goodbye was a dinner that evening with Lety and Victor, our second host family. They had us over and we ate cena típica (a typical dinner including beans, eggs, avocado, cheese, mantequilla and tortillas) with them. They made a big deal out of giving us a present, making us stand in the middle of the room with our eyes closed and hands out. It turns out it was a hammock! I desperately wanted to take a hammock home but had convinced myself that they were too expensive, I wouldn’t use it, where would I even put a hammock? It was perfect. This wasn’t our final goodbye with Lety and Victor and the family, because we promised to come back the next day, our last day. 

Samuel looks a little too happy about the fact that we’re leaving…

And then finally, the day that had been looming over us all year was here. We knew it was coming but that didn’t make it any easier. We still had classes and our timetable on Thursdays is actually my favourite because we have 4th, 5th and 6th grade who are my favourite classes. It felt like most of my day was hugs, goodbyes, gift from kind hearted kids, telling myself not to cry and choruses of ‘no se vaya!’ (don’t go!) which broke my heart.

Somehow we made it through, with almost no tears on my part, and to our goodbye lunch with the teachers. We ate soup and chicken with tortillas and listened to the headteacher say a few words. They also presented us with these beautiful wooden plaques and mirrors, handmade in Candelaria, on behalf of the teachers, students and parents. 

All of our fellow teachers

After that, all that was left was a few of our friends and both of our families. We did the rounds to see our friends throughout the afternoon and then had a special dinner of tamales with our host family. Later in the evening we went over to Lety and Victor’s to say goodbye to them for the last time too. Again, I managed to make it through without any tears, even when little Samuel started screaming as we left.

Part of the reason for this is that it still didn’t feel real that we were leaving. I felt like we would be back in school with the kids after the weekend or we were saying goodbye to our families for a week while we went on a visa run. Because we’d been there for so long, leaving and not coming back didn’t make sense. This was my home. Why would I be leaving?

That lasted until the morning. When it was time to say goodbye to Saida and the girls, things got very real, very quickly. We promised everyone we would come back in 4 years, once we’ve graduated from uni but who knows, it may be longer before we can see them again. Daniela and Jamie are both desperate to come to the UK though so you never know!

Mi familia
Las quiero mis hermanitos

We drove to San Pedro in a car that Victor organised for us, swinging by Tomalá to pick up Jesse and Lucy. The whole group was back together again for our last night in Honduras, minus Norome and Eva, our 8 month volunteers, who are staying another few weeks to travel.

Leaving Honduras was not easy. Even after a year, I feel like I had just settled in properly and then it was time to go. I could easily have stayed another year which made it even more frustrating that we had to leave. I wouldn’t change a single thing about this year though. The people I’ve met, the places I’ve been, the kids I’ve had the pleasure of teaching and the country that I’ve fallen in love with, I will be back. It may be in four years, it may be longer, but I will be back. 

Welcome to Candelaria, Lempira!

Welcome to Candelaria, Lempira! I’m writing this on my last day in this beautiful town and I thought it was probably about time that you got a look at the place I’ve called home for the last 12 months!

This is the view of Candelaria from what is essentially a viewpoint (not sure if that is the intended purpose, It’s basically just a layby, but doesn’t the town look good?) called the circumbalación. Candelaria has a population of roughly 800 people living in the town centre, pictured, with a further 200 or so in the surrounding aldeas of La Hacienda, Posada de Flor and El Regadillo. The mountain that’s visible is called Cerique but is commonly known only as ‘el cerro‘ (the mountain).
This is the view of Candelaria from the other side, from just below the summit of Cerrique. While it was very rewarding to climb the hill that looms over us wherever we are, it’s not something I would ever do again. Do not attempt without an experienced hand that also carries a machete! Our ‘experienced’ guides, Alex and Jonni, can be seen in the photo.
First stop on our tour is where our mornings start every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday – Jardín de Niños de Profe Marcelino Pineda Lopez a.k.a. Kinder. There are around 50 kids here split between two classes, pre-kinder/kinder for the 3-4 year olds and prepatorio for the 5 year olds. Its more or less a minute’s walk from our house.
From Kinder we walk down this rather steep but thankfully paved road (at least we’re not going up it though, right?). We go past our favourite comedor (a Honduran restaurant that is usually just the front room of someone’s house), Comedor Delmy, or as we call it, Nayely’s because our friend Nayely lives there. You can’t really see it because of the angle of the photo but it’s the bright pink facade below the blue one two thirds of the way up the photo.
The bottom half of the road above. When we swim in the river with our host sisters, we walk straight down past the pink house that is visible which leads to a nice swimming spot that has a natural slide the girls love! On our way from kinder to the escuela we take a right instead.
We continue along this road to the primary school, passing by our friend Erik’s mechanic’s workshop on the left, just out of frame of this photo.
The canchita (playing court) where we used to play football all the time is below the road above on the left hand side.
On the last stretch of the walk from Kinder to the primary school. In reality this walk only takes about five minutes. This road is always nice to walk down because it’s frequented by a variety of very colourful and very beautiful butterflies!
This is the last step (haha, get it?) on our journey to school. After the road in the previous picture we cross a bridge over the river and then the gates to the school are at the top of the steps on the right. (The girls are our host sisters, Jamie and Daniela.)
Welcome to La Escuela Urbana Mixta de Jose Cecilio del Valle!
These are what our classrooms are like. The buildings are over three different levels but I haven’t included many photos of the school here. If you want to see more have a look at my blog post Introducing: La Escuela Jose Cecilio del Valle. In total there are about 230 students. 
One of the many gorgeous views from the school. 
On the way home now, this is at the top of the butterfly street looking the other way. Many of the houses here in Honduras are painted bright colours, like you can see here. It’s one of the things that you first notice as being different to home when you arrive.  
Continuing up the road, this his hill is the bane of my life. It is every bit as steep as it looks and incredibly bumpy. I’m smiling through the pain.
After the steep road we come out onto the square from the gap on the left hand side of the photo. Our house is straight ahead on the left from this angle. On the right is the central park and as always, Cerrique is watching. 
Our house! The window on the left looks into our bedroom and the door is into the living room. Part of the main door to the house can be seen on the right.
If you go the end of our block and turn left, this is the road you are faced with. It is steep, slippery and not properly paved, all the things you want from a road and all the things you can expect from many roads in Candelaria.
At the bottom and to the left is the road behind our house, which is the green door behind the flowers on the left.
The street outside our house again from the other end. It forms one of the sides of the parque central. 
If you go anti-clockwise from our side, you’ll come to the side that has the Catholic church and is the unofficial mototaxi station. This is also where they set up the stage for the big celebrations like Independence Day or Lempira Day. 
The iconic (at least to us) Catholic church that sits on one side of the square. We have attended mass here once, on my birthday after some of my sixth grade girls invited me. We’ve also gone to the Evangelical church a lot with Lety and Victor which is a very different experience from the Catholic services. 
If you go down the street at the end of this side of the park you come to our favourite place in the whole of Candelaria – the post office! Even the worst of days could be turned around with a text from the post office saying that we had mail! Unfortunately we could be waiting a long time for our packages, I think the longest was six months! Everything we’ve been sent has arrived though, eventually!
Continuing around, this side of the square houses the municipalidad (the equivalent of council buildings) and the alcaldía (the mayor’s office).
The mayor’s office and the council buildings. 
A beautiful mural on the side of the palacio municipal (council building). 
 This is looking into the park from the third side of the square. The park in the middle is very pretty and a lovely place to sit for a bit in the afternoon, as long as it’s not too hot. Whenever there are celebrations there are usually a lot of things set up here and it’s very full. Apart from that, it’s actually pretty empty, even though there’s free wifi!
This is what the bit of the square outside our house looks like on a Sunday morning when the market comes to Candelaria. The market is a great thing for the town because it brings people fresh meat, fresh vegetables, clothes, shoes, homeware, everything they could need! It’s great, but not when they start setting up at 4am right outside our bedroom window!
Enjoying some (free) fried chicken and tajadas in the comedor area of the market. (It’s all about who you know!)
Moving away from the square, this road continues from the side of the park that we live on, with the church being on the left. Our favourite pulperería (a corner shop), Irma’s, is just visible further down on the right.
If you keep going straight, you’ll arrive at Ferreteria Genesis, our second host family’s hardware shop.
Going right and then left instead brings you upon this stunning view which you can see from the entrance to the colegio (the high school).
The colegio is much bigger than the escuela because students come in from the other aldeas once they leave primary school.
At one end of the high school there is the cancha (the court). Here there are a lot of people gathered for a dance competition that we judged.
Set up for the dance competition but usually this is where the football, basketball and volleyball teams practice.
This photo was taken down the road from Kinder. It features the public bathrooms I have never seen anyone use and would never dream of using. Seriously, hold your nose as you go past. 
Keep going and you get to, in my opinion, the worst road in Candelaria. Luckily we never really have any reason to be on this side of town so we can avoid it pretty easily. 
The only thing we’re ever on this side of town for is to go to the campo, the big football pitch. This is where we came with the escuela to practise marching for the Independence Day parade. 
The río pichigal runs through Candelaria and there is nothing more refreshing on a hot day than going for a swim. It’s not necessarily the cleanest but sometimes you’re just too hot to care! We would often take our host sisters, Daniela and Jamie, to the river to play and to try and teach them how to swim. Unfortunately it’s a skill that many of the children here lack.
There is one ‘main’ road that runs through Candelaria. At one end it goes to Gracias, 100km that takes four hours on the bad roads.
Way back when we first came and Amy and I still ran, we would run along the Gracias road until we reached this bridge where I would die for a few minutes while Amy waited patiently and then we would turn around.
At the other end, the road runs to Mapulaca, a border town with El Salvador.
The road goes uphill steeply but if you time it right, it is absolutely worth it. You get rewarded with a breathtaking sunset over the hills of El Salvador in the distance. 
And that’s it! That is basically all there is to Candelaria. I hope you’ve enjoyed having a look around my little Honduran town. Over the past year these streets have become my home and the people that walk them have become my family. It breaks my heart that I have to leave them tomorrow but I know one day I will return to walk them again.