We have finally reached Colombia on the blog! It’s almost a year since I set out on this trip and I’m still enjoying writing about it so much. It’s a great chance to look back on some of the incredible places I’ve been and things I’ve done. I feel like I’m experiencing them all over again!
It’s not possible to travel from Panama to Colombia by land because of the fearsome Darien Gap so we took our first flight since arriving in Honduras a month earlier. Being on a budget, we had gone for a very early flight and we hadn’t made things easier for ourselves by having a big night out in the city with some friends who were parting ways. The early morning and a bit of a hangover meant that arriving in Colombia was a bit anticlimactic. It was also one of the most humid places I’ve ever been and I really struggled with that. We had some time to kill before we could check into our hostel so we dropped our bags off there and then went out in search of food and air conditioning! The only time I set foot in a Starbucks on this trip was that afternoon, purely because I could feel the cool air blasting out as I walked past in the street!
Even just wandering around was amazing though. Cartagena is a beautiful city, interesting just to walk around and one of the most colonial cities that I’ve seen in Latin America. To end our first day, we went on a late night stroll in search of arepas. An arepa is a very popular dish in Colombia (and Venezuela, although it’s a bit different) made of corn dough filled with pretty much whatever you want!
Now, we didn’t have that long in Cartagena, just one full day, although we would be back later for another night after spending about two weeks exploring the Caribbean coast of Colombia. With the heat and the humidity, we had decided that we wanted to do something that would get us out of it. If you’ve been following along, I’m sure you can guess what Hannah and I chose… scuba diving! We had spent some time the previous day messaging a bunch of dive shops to see if anyone could squeeze us in at the last minute and the amazing Paraiso Dive were able to! They are actually based on Tierra Bomba, an island sitting in the bay in front of Cartagena about a 20 minute boat ride away. We can now say we dived in each country on this trip! Jota, the owner, and Andrés, our dive guide, were great, they kept us safe and comfortable, showed us some really cool things, all on top of squeezing us in in the first place!
We went to two dive sites, the first at a site called the Underwater Museum where there are three shipwrecks and then some sculptures installed by the Navy for training purposes. We got to swim through one of the wrecks and it was cool to see the sculptures. We saw some lionfish, scorpionfish, lots of juvenile fish and two squid. After some juice, a fresh passion fruit and a little break on the beach during our surface interval, it was back out for our second dive. We went back to the same area, off a peninsula of the mainland called Barú, to a dive site called La Torreta. It’s called that after a tower there that came off a wrecked warship. We saw lots more of the same amazing fish on this dive but were a bit preoccupied with avoiding some of the other divers! There was an older couple who were the definition of ‘all the gear, no idea’ – they had rocked up with all their own kit but were incredibly annoying to dive with. The woman went GoPro first into everything, the man had no buoyancy control so would rise up or sink down into people or coral and neither had any self-awareness! Regardless, we had two amazing dives and once we finished, we were able to hang out in the resort where Paraiso has their dive shop!
In need of some relaxation, we headed back to our hostel in the bustling district of El Centro. We stayed in República Hostel both times we were in Cartagena. They had air conditioned dorms (definitely a necessity!), nice common areas and a great pool! They also had baggage storage which was important for us when we were back for the second time, as we went off on a side quest for a few days and wanted to leave our big bags there. It’s in a good location in El Centro, the old town of Cartagena, just a short walk from Getsemani, where most of the nightlife is. Along with a few people we had met at our hostel, we headed there in the evening. We had heard Plaza Trinidad was the place to be, a very lively spot with lots of street food options. There are also lots of streets with bars up and down the pavement. We met up with two French snorkelers that had been on our dive boat that morning and had a drink together while getting serenaded by a roaming singer!
We were leaving Cartagena the next morning to head a little further along the coast. Our bus was at 11am so we were at the bus station a little early to make sure we got tickets. This sounds like a very mundane part of my travels to be writing about but I do so for good reason. It was in this bus station that I got an email from Chrissi at GVI, offering me an interview for the Education Coordinator position in Costa Rica! That moment led me to where I am now, almost a year later.
Fast forward 11 days and we were back in Cartagena after visiting Tayrona, Minca, Punta Gallinas for me, Ciudad Perdida for Hannah and Santa Marta. We had one more night in Cartagena before staying in one of the coolest places ever. But before we get there, we chose to do a walking tour to find out a bit more about the city for our last day in Cartagena. Even after already having spent a few days there, we felt like we didn’t know that much about it. Thankfully the weather was actually pretty bad, raining a little with thunderstorms in the background. You wouldn’t think that’s ideal for a walking tour but it took away some of the humidity.
We booked a tour with Nexperience Colombia and had a great tour guide called Liss who took us through some of the old town and then ended in Getsemani. We learnt some cool facts about Cartagena’s flag which is red, green and yellow rectangles with a white star in the middle. The red represents the blood of Colombians, yellow for the sun , green for hope and the star for the 8 municipalities that make up Cartagena. It was the flag of Colombia at first but the current Colombian flag has a yellow stripe for the riches of the country, a blue stripe for the sky, sea and rivers and a red stripe for the blood spilled fighting for Colombia’s independence. It is so similar to Venezuela and Ecuador because at one point they were in a coalition.
Cartagena was our introduction to Colombia and while it wasn’t my favourite place that we went, it was a great start. Once you get over the heat, Cartagena is a lively, vibrant city. It has a lot of history to dive into and I feel that I only scratched the surface of it. Coming back for an extra night was a good bonus but I had so much fun in the time in between our stays. Coming next – one of the most beautiful national parks I’ve ever been to!
If there’s one place that entices travellers off the beaten path (you know, the one that usually skips Honduras entirely), it is the 45 km2 island of Utila. The smallest island of the Islas de la Bahía, Utila is known for two things – diving and partying. This is the place that I learnt to dive and I’ve indulged in it’s other pastime plenty as well! In the year I lived in Honduras I visited 3 times, once for Christmas and New Year with the whole group of volunteers, once for a random long weekend and once when my mum and twin sister were visiting. I was happy to be able to go back for a full week as part of this trip. Hannah was equally excited – she was supposed to come here to do research for her undergraduate anthropology dissertation but that was in the summer of 2020 so I’m sure you can imagine what happened… Anyway, we were finally back and ready to make the most of it. Our days alternated between diving, relaxing and good food, drinks and company! If you ever make it out there, I wanted to share a few of my recommendations though there are plenty more not included here!
WHAT TO DO
Scuba Dive
This (even above partying) is the number one reason that people go to Utila. It’s actually where I learnt to dive seven years ago and still where most of my dives have been. The Caribbean side of Central America is home to the world’s second largest coral reef which is a large attraction for scuba divers of all levels. Utila is also one of the cheapest places in the region to dive. There is incredible diversity on every dive – with most dives on the reef, there’s an abundance of coral to see (unfortunately not always healthy) and a large variety of fish. It’s also common to see larger marine life such as rays, sharks and dolphins. Even if you don’t see them on your dive, you can go dolphin hunting on your surface interval! This is what I did during the summer and we ended up having over an hour in between dives because it was so incredible. There were 15 or 16 swimming at a greater depth to start with and then three came up to the surface and swam right next to us for a while.
My go-to in terms of a dive shop has always been Underwater Vision. A friend recommended this place to me before I even went to Honduras, I ended up learning to dive there over Christmas 2016 and it’s the only place I’ve ever gone since. They have always had great instructors and divemasters that I’ve felt safe and comfortable with. Some other places that I’ve heard good things about are Utila Dive Center (right next door to Underwater Vision) and Alton’s Dive Center but I can’t vouch for them myself.
See whale sharks
I don’t have much that I can personally add to this one because I’ve never been lucky enough to see one but Utila is one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks. Despite the name, whale sharks are actually the largest species of fish, known for their distinctive patterns of white spots. They can be found in Utila’s waters all year round but the best chance is between February and April. You’ll still need a lot of luck though!
Neptune’s Beach
While Utila is a bit of an island paradise, it’s not lined with beautiful beaches all the way around. Bando beach is a small private beach at one end of Utila Town and Chepes beach is a small public one on the other side of town but if you want an idyllic beach day, head to Neptune’s. When I visited in the summer, my twin sister Amy happened to be working on Utila at the same time, leading a coral research team. Their base, Coral View Dive Center, was right next to the dock where you can take a 50 lempira (£1.60) boat through the mangroves to Neptune’s. Technically the beach is called Coral Beach and the restaurant is called Neptune’s but everyone just refers to the whole place as Neptune’s. You don’t have to order from the restaurant or bar but I would recommend it – definitely get the onion rings!
One side of the beach has live corals that come right up to the shore so you can’t swim there but on the right side of the jetty the shore is just sand so it’s safe to get in. Further out on this side there are also coral reefs that you can swim to and snorkel over. This is one of the best snorkelling spots on the island! One of my favourite dive sites, Black Coral Wall, is also just off shore around here.
Rent bikes
One thing I’ve never done, the previous times I’ve been to Utila, is explore outside the town much. To remedy this, Hannah and I rented some bikes to see some new places! You’d think it would have been too hot but the movement actually created our own breeze which was really refreshing. We stopped at a few places like Scott’s Driftwood Beach which has incredible sculptures, a random spot with a beautiful view out to the ocean and later at a little pulpería for a nice cold drink. I’m not a goal oriented hiker or cyclist it turns out, so when we wanted to stop to take pictures, look at animals or drink emergency electrolytes (true story), we did it! It was nice to get out of the traveller bubble of Utila town. What we saw reflected a little more of the Honduras that we know from the mainland. We rented our bikes from Golf Cart Rentals along Main Street for $10 for 24 hours though they are also available for just a couple of hours at a time. The bikes weren’t in great shape and it took us a while to figure out the brakes but Utila is pretty flat other than the hill going into town from the back so they got the job done.
Jade Seahorse
A bit of a hidden gem, both due to the fact that it’s under appreciated in my opinion and also somewhere you could walk past without really noticing, is the Jade Seahorse. While technically a hotel with rooms that you can stay in and home to the Treetanic bar (slightly random opening hours mean I have never been there for a drink), Jade Seahorse’s real attraction is the mosaic garden. The 50 lempira entrance fee is well worth it (the owner will most likely be sitting somewhere in the garden and will ask for it as you’re walking around). There is so much to take in that you won’t know where to look. Take your time and enjoy all the little details.
WHERE TO STAY
Trudy’s
Just like Underwater Vision is the only place on the island that I’ve ever dived, Trudy’s, the hostel attached to Underwater Vision, is the only place I’ve ever stayed. I find the rooms to be clean and comfortable, whether that’s a dorm or a private room. There is a restaurant with great food, particularly breakfast, and nightly specials like pizza or wings and a bar that has various events throughout the week like karaoke and quiz nights. These are a great way to get to know other guests but also draw people from elsewhere on the island so it’s a really social place. It’s not, however, a party hostel and most nights things quieten down around 10pm or 11pm (the exception being for divemaster graduation ceremonies but these are a spectacle in themselves). While there’s not a beach, Trudy’s is right on the water with it’s own dock where you can swim and where the dive boats leave from. There is a large sandy area that is perfect for sunbathing (with lots of suncream on!), playing beach volleyball or chilling in a hammock in the shade. If you stay at Trudy’s and take a course with UV, there are discounts on the accommodation prices which is an added bonus.
I’ve stayed there in a big group, a small group, with my family and this summer just as a pair and I’ve always had a great experience. It’s easy to get talking to anyone, whether it’s on a dive, swimming by the dock or having a drink in the bar. All of the instructors and divemasters get involved with the guests and are friendly faces around the place. This summer, Hannah and I built a great wee group, a trio of girls from Germany, Austria and Norway, one of the divemasters and the first of two great Dutch T(h)oms of the trip. I also, absolutely unbelievably, managed to find a few long lost cousins from the Isle of Lewis by way of Ireland! That’s a story for another day but it still baffles me not just that we met on this tiny island in the Caribbean but that we managed to figure out the connection!
Other options
As I’ve said before, Trudy’s is the only place I’ve stayed but I have heard bits and pieces of other places. Mango Inn is the name of the hostel attached to Utila Dive Center which is supposed to be nice. Whereas Underwater Vision and Trudy’s are in the same spot on the waterfront, UDC and Mango Inn are separate. UDC is right next door to Underwater Vision but Mango Inn is about a 15 minute walk away, in the centre of Utila Town. You could also stay in cabins at the Jade Seahorse that I mentioned above, each room with a different theme. There are a lot of options to choose from around the island and anywhere in Utila town is not very far from anywhere else.
WHERE TO EAT
Mama Rosa’s
Due to its proximity to Underwater Vision, cheap prices and large portions, this is a go-to spot of mine in Utila. Baleadas are great anywhere really but Mama Rosa’s are huge and you can get them all loaded up with chicken, beef, avocado, salad and more. They also have massive pupusas, large stuffed tortillas that are a favourite of mine. They also have things like burritos and quesadillas as well as great fresh fruit juices.
La Casita
What drew me to La Casita was initially the bright colours of its exterior but also the amazing smells every time I passed by. It has all kinds of things on the menu from baleadas and burgers to pasta and seafood. I had the special of the day when we went which was birria tacos and they were delicious.
Camilla’s Bakery/Pizza Nut
A very versatile spot, Camilla’s Bakery serves breakfast and lunch during the day and then reopens at night as Pizza Nut. As far as Camilla’s Bakery goes, they have a great selection of bagels that have saved me on more than one worse-for-wear morning over the years. I have actually never been to Pizza Nut but hear nothing but good things!
The Pelican
The Pelican is right opposite Underwater Vision but was new since I was last on Utila. Hannah and I figured that we should check it out one night but it was actually completely full when we first tried to go! It’s a pretty small space but is very popular so it’s actually somewhere that I would recommend booking if you want to make sure you get a table! We booked for the following day and enjoyed an incredible meal. I went for the Thai yellow curry which actually wasn’t on the menu but had been the special the day before. The server remembered that we hadn’t been able to get a table then and offered us the option of the curries that were on offer the previous day. It was absolutely delicious and I was very grateful for the chance to enjoy it! As good as most of the other options around Utila are, having some lighter food made a nice change from the heavier Honduran and American options.
Pink Flamingo
I met my sister here on her day off to have a wee brunch and it is such a stunning spot. You could be forgiven for missing it because it’s hidden from the road and is very inconspicuous. Once you enter, you are greeted with a wooden structure that stretches out into the most stunning turquoise water that surrounds the whole of Utila. Pink Flamingo really leans into the aesthetics of its surroundings, making it a very Instagrammable spot. It was a place I could have quite happily stayed for several hours, enjoying my book in one of their hammocks or swing chairs. The food was good too, I had a Mexican style brunch option but their salads, bowls and sandwiches had me wanting to go back and work my way through the menu! It’s a little more expensive and with smaller portions than some other places but I think it’s worth a visit for the vibes!
The Point
On the recommendation of a new divemaster friend we met at the start of the week, we had a spare day with no plans and decided to head to The Point. It’s a restaurant and bar looking out onto the water that also has a small chlorinated pool. I love being in the ocean but there’s just something about being in a chlorine pool that makes me feel so clean and so at home. On the menu are American staples and I enjoyed a great buffalo chicken burger. Hannah and I enlisted a couple of our new friends to come along with us and we spent most of the day there, playing cards, reading and chatting in the pool.
WHERE TO DRINK
Ask around for the best place to go depending on the night!
There are endless options on an island that is known for its party scene and it mostly depends on the night. Talk to people at your hostel or around town and ask where will be good that night. Back in the day, Tequila Tuesdays at Tranquilos and Ladies Night on Thursdays at Vinyls were the place to be and still to this day. Hannah and I have fond memories (if a little fuzzy in places) of both of these nights when we were 18 and we did actually go back to Tequila Tuesday this summer. I don’t know if it was my advanced age of 25 or just not being in the mood on the night but it didn’t hit quite the same.
La Cueva
Something that I did love and the thing to do on Monday nights is karaoke at La Cueva! My sister and a lot of her research students plus Hannah and I and our group from the hostel (and pretty much everyone else) were packed into the bar. I’m not a big karaoke singer but I am an avid and enthusiastic audience member. There were lots of great performances, Taylor Swift from Amy and her friend, some Patti Smith from Hannah and someone sang the Cha Cha Slide which I’m definitely stealing in the future.
Utila Brewing Company
This was more of a one off experience or at least monthly rather than weekly, but we happened to be on the island for one of Utila Brewing Company’s big jungle parties. The brewing company was actually set up by the instructor I had for my Advanced diving course seven years ago! Normally it’s only open at the weekends but the jungle parties are usually Friday nights. It was 100 lempira (£3.20) to get in and there was a great DJ, and even though it was mostly techno music which isn’t usually my thing I really enjoyed it!
Sara Somewhere 